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Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice
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Currently building up an Orbea Ordu and I'm looking for something in the budget category and even better would be something used.

Non-negotiable: Disc, Hooked tubeless, and 28mm tires....unless you can convince me the aero of 25 outweighs RR of 28

Really looking for the best bang of specs for the buck and I'm overwhelmed by wheel choice.

I dream of a tri spoke front wheel for the cool factor, but my brain is wondering if I should bother. What are the pros and cons?

Disc vs Spoked Disc vs Disc Cover? In a perfect world I'd have 3 wheels but I can always 'borrow' the rear wheel (shimano c50) from my other bike anytime I need to use it.
HED vanquish disc is on ebay right now, it looks a little beat up but seems like a good deal.. but I know I could get a better value as a wheelset from somewhere.

Where do we stand on wheel width? I'm looking for something at 21mm, is even wider worth looking at? Light Bicycle has several very wide options.

IG - @ryanppax
http://www.geluminati.com
Use code ST5 for $5 off your order
Last edited by: Ryanppax: Jan 16, 24 8:28
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [Ryanppax] [ In reply to ]
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Disc or rim brakes?

My initial lean would be toward the HED options because they have wide and deep aluminum rims. There are a few wider options on the market now, but they are a lot more expensive than the HEDs.
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [Ryanppax] [ In reply to ]
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If I were you, I'd copy the Javier Gomez's setup with HED wheels.
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [exxxviii] [ In reply to ]
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exxxviii wrote:
My initial lean would be toward the HED options because they have wide and deep aluminum rims. There are a few wider options on the market now, but they are a lot more expensive than the HEDs.

There are a *lot* of wider options on the market now than the HED aluminum rims. They're still using the Ardennes+ rim introduced in 2013 with 21mm/25mm internal/external. That was super wide then, and 21mm internal is still considered pretty wide, but I'd argue that for the stated preference for 28mm tires, the OP would want external width of at least 28mm. Wider with the old Poertner 105 formula.

For the Ardennes Plus rim in TT mode the argument is between 23mm and 25mm tires, not 25mm vs. 28mm.

HED is still a fine option, just saying it's best with narrow tires by today's standards.
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [trail] [ In reply to ]
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trail wrote:
exxxviii wrote:

My initial lean would be toward the HED options because they have wide and deep aluminum rims. There are a few wider options on the market now, but they are a lot more expensive than the HEDs.


There are a *lot* of wider options on the market now than the HED aluminum rims. They're still using the Ardennes+ rim introduced in 2013 with 21mm/25mm internal/external. That was super wide then, and 21mm internal is still considered pretty wide, but I'd argue that for the stated preference for 28mm tires, the OP would want external width of at least 28mm. Wider with the old Poertner 105 formula.

For the Ardennes Plus rim in TT mode the argument is between 23mm and 25mm tires, not 25mm vs. 28mm.

HED is still a fine option, just saying it's best with narrow tires by today's standards.
I was mainly recommending HED because or the "hooked" and "budget" criteria. But yeah, I otherwise agree.
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [exxxviii] [ In reply to ]
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Disc!

IG - @ryanppax
http://www.geluminati.com
Use code ST5 for $5 off your order
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [trail] [ In reply to ]
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Good to know about the outer width

Are these a good option?

https://www.lightbicycle.com/...less-compatible.html
Solves my wheelset problem but not the rear disc problem.

They also have a wider 65mm wheel here
https://www.lightbicycle.com/...ross-and-gravel.html

Parcours has a great disc wheel it looks like, if only I could secure a cheap front wheel.

The EZ disc wheel cover costs another $300 so hits my budget target pretty well. Adds 500 grams, and realistically would never remove the cover. I've used a disc cover my entire tri life, but I've always wanted a real disc. And something about the HED disc has me worried about cracking the fairing especially around the valve stem as I've done on my old cover.

IG - @ryanppax
http://www.geluminati.com
Use code ST5 for $5 off your order
Last edited by: Ryanppax: Jan 16, 24 8:37
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [Ryanppax] [ In reply to ]
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Here are some options-that I posted on your previous post...

https://www.premierbike.com/products/80-cm-deep-carbon-clincher-front-wheel


HED: The vanquish line has external width of 30 mm: https://hedcycling.com/...c-performance-series
This is their vanquish line. They had a pretty good sale a month ago.
Also, I wouldn't buy from anyone on ebay without 100% rating, or darn close to it. Especially if they don't accept returns.


There is also the "falcon" line that has been posted on here recently. Their front wheel is under $300. Just a heads up.


My worry about a trispoke is the harshness of the ride. Not much flex there.


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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [Ryanppax] [ In reply to ]
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I've got a set of LB WR50 wheels on the way. 25mm internal, 32 external to match better with 28mm tires. Pretty excited for those.

I've also got a set of LB AR55 rim brake wheels. 21mm internal, 28mm external with their grooved graphene brake track. I'm really impressed with their stopping power, although they don't quite mate up with 28mm tires as well as I'd like.

Caviat that I use these wheels for road racing, especially crits, where I find the wider tires allow me to corner much more confidently. That being said, if I was buying a new TT setup, I'd also go with something that let me run 28mm tires
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [littlefoot] [ In reply to ]
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problem with premier and that falcon front wheel is the width.... but how much does it matter?

IG - @ryanppax
http://www.geluminati.com
Use code ST5 for $5 off your order
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [Ryanppax] [ In reply to ]
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How are Roval Rapide CL II ?

1039 on the pros closet right now

IG - @ryanppax
http://www.geluminati.com
Use code ST5 for $5 off your order
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [Ryanppax] [ In reply to ]
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I've got the clx II on the road bike and they are amazing wheels. In honesty I can't really justify the cost difference of the CLX over the CLS but I was feeling like treating myself. So for $1k they are a steal. Note that the front is wider than the back, and whilst Specialised claim they are optimised for a 26mm then I'd not run anything less than a 28mm on the front to provide some protection to the rim.

My intent is to have the CLXs as windy day backup to the Bontranger 75s. The handling of the CL(x) in sidewind is freaky stable, way way way better than the Zipp 30s despite being deeper.
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [Duncan74] [ In reply to ]
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So i guess now, the short list is

LB AR565 (newest model) @ $980 21in 28out w/ 30max
LB WR65 @ $740 25in 32out Still not sure about that internal
Rapide CL II @1050 21in 35 outer

IG - @ryanppax
http://www.geluminati.com
Use code ST5 for $5 off your order
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [littlefoot] [ In reply to ]
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Why wouldn't you buy from an eBay seller with less than 100% rating?

Why would you be concerned about "no returns"?
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [jimatbeyond] [ In reply to ]
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Not answering your question but heres the wheel I was considering.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/204601514782?hash=item2fa3335b1e:g:JsUAAOSwavFllI1X

IG - @ryanppax
http://www.geluminati.com
Use code ST5 for $5 off your order
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [Ryanppax] [ In reply to ]
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Why didn't they wipe the dirt off of it?
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [Ryanppax] [ In reply to ]
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to add another potential complication.... This is a shimano c50 wheel. 21int 28 outer on the orbea fork.
would the roval with 32mm outer even fit?



IG - @ryanppax
http://www.geluminati.com
Use code ST5 for $5 off your order
Last edited by: Ryanppax: Jan 16, 24 17:15
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [Ryanppax] [ In reply to ]
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Spoiler Alert: This will either be a goring of someone's sacred cow or an opening of a can of worms, you decide.

Just perusing bicyclerollingresistance.com to compare a couple of tires, the Conti 5000 S TR in both 25mm and 28mm.

At reasonable race pressures for both tires, what BRR refers to as 'high' pressure, there's about a half a watt difference between the tires, and at 'extra high' pressure (which no one would dream of riding unless they wanted to lose their fillings) they're equal.

So, yeah, unless you're running wheels that are wide enough to hit the all important 105% figure for the 28 (which will measure out to 30 or so when mounted on a rim with even a moderately wide internal width), you're better off with the 25mm tire on something like the HED Jet+ wheels, as the aero gains will certainly outweigh the negligible RR gains of the wider tire.
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [Ryanppax] [ In reply to ]
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Speaking of Parcours ... I just received their disc wheel ... haven't ridden it yet but I'm impressed with the quality. And it is really wide.
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [Ryanppax] [ In reply to ]
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Roval is 35mm wide on the front. Which means it may not on that fork. (which is a new worry you've just given me....)
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [Mudge] [ In reply to ]
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Thanks for the headsup. I'll give that a look. I know HED has low presures spec'd. 70psi max if memory serves

IG - @ryanppax
http://www.geluminati.com
Use code ST5 for $5 off your order
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [Ryanppax] [ In reply to ]
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Ryanppax wrote:
Thanks for the headsup. I'll give that a look. I know HED has low presures spec'd. 70psi max if memory serves

their max pressures depend on rider weight and tire width. FWIW, if you're running tubeless, their max pressures are plenty high enough for anything but the smoothest of smooth velodromes.
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [jimatbeyond] [ In reply to ]
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jimatbeyond wrote:
Why didn't they wipe the dirt off of it?

My exact thought also. Why take the time to post an expensive disc wheel that is dirty.

Also, why I suggested not buying from someone who doesn't have 100% rating was for his situation, which is buying a big ticket item from an unknown source. Plus, if he gets it and it doesn't work for him, he's out of luck...and money.

I err on the side of caution when looking at reviews and pics of things, as well as percent rating. Under 98, an automatic no go for me.
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [Ryanppax] [ In reply to ]
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Don't buy the roval CL wheels. They use round spokes, not bladed spokes, which kinda defeats the whole purpose of those wheels
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [Ryanppax] [ In reply to ]
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Unpopular opinion but AliExpress is a goldmine for bike parts, wheels included. Order now to get before the season.

25mm v 28mm depends entirely on the speed that you're traveling. At 25mph+ it's going to favor the 25mm, but that's also hugely dependent on the wheel and frame interaction as well as the road surface. at <20mph it will probably favor the 28mm, but above caveats still apply.

Tri spokes are cool, but they can't be trued and once interaction with the fork blades is considered are basically the same as deep dish. They're also generally more expensive.

Tubeless compatible is nice but IMO narrows your options unnecessarily. Latex tubes and tubeless regularly test exactly the same RR.

A disc cover is less cool and very slightly slower than a disc, but on a good rim it's within the range of fastest disc to slowest disc. Wheel/tire interaction again is key.

I guess the take home message is that differences between modern wheels can be entirely cancelled out or augmented by tire and frame interaction. I'd buy the cheapest ones you can find that have a modern lenticular profile and not fret too much about the rest. Getting your skinsuit tailored is going to be 10x the gain at 1/10th the cost.
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [imswimmer328] [ In reply to ]
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Could you go into more detail? thanks

I'm getting a quote on a single front wheel from LB AR565 and my spoke choices are Sapim CX-RAY or Pillar PSR X-TRA 1420

IG - @ryanppax
http://www.geluminati.com
Use code ST5 for $5 off your order
Last edited by: Ryanppax: Jan 17, 24 8:09
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [Ryanppax] [ In reply to ]
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The roval CL wheels use round spokes, not bladed/aero profiled spokes. At the speed at which spokes travel, this can amount to a fair amount of drag, as per Josh Partner. The CLX wheels use bladed spokes. It's a shame because they're awesome wheels, but for this reason I'd never use the Rapide CL wheels unless they've been rebuilt with proper spokes.

Both the spokes you mentioned through LB are bladed spokes, so you're good there. The Pillar ones are possibly a little lighter, the CX-RAY is very widely used. Typically I've gone with the CX-RAY, but you really can't go wrong there IMO.
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [imswimmer328] [ In reply to ]
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Awesome, thanks! And what a bummer on the rovals

IG - @ryanppax
http://www.geluminati.com
Use code ST5 for $5 off your order
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [littlefoot] [ In reply to ]
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littlefoot wrote:
jimatbeyond wrote:
Why didn't they wipe the dirt off of it?

My exact thought also. Why take the time to post an expensive disc wheel that is dirty.

Also, why I suggested not buying from someone who doesn't have 100% rating was for his situation, which is buying a big ticket item from an unknown source. Plus, if he gets it and it doesn't work for him, he's out of luck...and money.

I err on the side of caution when looking at reviews and pics of things, as well as percent rating. Under 98, an automatic no go for me.


How would you lose your money when buying from an eBay seller and the product is broken or doesn't work?
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [jimatbeyond] [ In reply to ]
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jimatbeyond wrote:
littlefoot wrote:
jimatbeyond wrote:
Why didn't they wipe the dirt off of it?


My exact thought also. Why take the time to post an expensive disc wheel that is dirty.

Also, why I suggested not buying from someone who doesn't have 100% rating was for his situation, which is buying a big ticket item from an unknown source. Plus, if he gets it and it doesn't work for him, he's out of luck...and money.

I err on the side of caution when looking at reviews and pics of things, as well as percent rating. Under 98, an automatic no go for me.



How would you lose your money when buying from an eBay seller and the product is broken or doesn't work?

Not willing to find that out. There's typically a reason the ratings are the way they are...I do research their rating before buying or deciding not to buy. But, in the end, it my money and my call.
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [littlefoot] [ In reply to ]
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littlefoot wrote:
jimatbeyond wrote:
littlefoot wrote:
jimatbeyond wrote:
Why didn't they wipe the dirt off of it?


My exact thought also. Why take the time to post an expensive disc wheel that is dirty.

Also, why I suggested not buying from someone who doesn't have 100% rating was for his situation, which is buying a big ticket item from an unknown source. Plus, if he gets it and it doesn't work for him, he's out of luck...and money.

I err on the side of caution when looking at reviews and pics of things, as well as percent rating. Under 98, an automatic no go for me.



How would you lose your money when buying from an eBay seller and the product is broken or doesn't work?

Not willing to find that out. There's typically a reason the ratings are the way they are...I do research their rating before buying or deciding not to buy. But, in the end, it my money and my call.


Have you ever read eBay's Money Back Guarantee?
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [mathematics] [ In reply to ]
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HED would be at the top of my list. I just received a new set of HED wheels and could be happier. I dealt with Andrew and the customer service was exceptional. I have confidence in the product and confidence in their customer service. Value and peace of mind is important to me. The veteran discount was the generous too.
Last edited by: Michaelatkison: Jan 17, 24 21:05
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [Michaelatkison] [ In reply to ]
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Michaelatkison wrote:
HED would be at the top of my list. I just received a new set of HED wheels and could be happier. I dealt with Andrew and the customer service was exceptional. I have confidence in the product and I have confidence in the product. Value and peace of mind is important to me. The veteran discount was the generous too.

Yes, but do you have confidence in the product? :)

I, too, am a big fan of HED wheels.
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [Mudge] [ In reply to ]
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Mudge wrote:
Michaelatkison wrote:
HED would be at the top of my list. I just received a new set of HED wheels and could be happier. I dealt with Andrew and the customer service was exceptional. I have confidence in the product and I have confidence in the product. Value and peace of mind is important to me. The veteran discount was the generous too.

Yes, but do you have confidence in the product? :)

I, too, am a big fan of HED wheels.

Haha. I have confidence in the product and confidence in their customer service.
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [Ryanppax] [ In reply to ]
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Ryanppax wrote:
Good to know about the outer width


Are these a good option?

https://www.lightbicycle.com/...less-compatible.html
Solves my wheelset problem but not the rear disc problem.

They also have a wider 65mm wheel here
https://www.lightbicycle.com/...ross-and-gravel.html

Parcours has a great disc wheel it looks like, if only I could secure a cheap front wheel.

The EZ disc wheel cover costs another $300 so hits my budget target pretty well. Adds 500 grams, and realistically would never remove the cover. I've used a disc cover my entire tri life, but I've always wanted a real disc. And something about the HED disc has me worried about cracking the fairing especially around the valve stem as I've done on my old cover.


I'd avoid LB. I didn't have a good experience with them, that was a long time ago, but it seems they have still not wrapped their heads around quality control. Maybe if you do buy from them, get them to send a video of your disc to show that it is true? HED disc won't make the whoop whoop noise.

https://youtu.be/ELbVmyiLcL8?si=jhZTO272KSUzs254



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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [Michaelatkison] [ In reply to ]
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Was just about to pay my light bicycle invoice for a front wheel. 550 shipped. Lead time is about 10 weeks....

Figured I'd check eBay again. Used Vanquish Rc6 performance for 550.

No Brainer on the HED?

IG - @ryanppax
http://www.geluminati.com
Use code ST5 for $5 off your order
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [Ryanppax] [ In reply to ]
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Ryanppax wrote:
Was just about to pay my light bicycle invoice for a front wheel. 550 shipped. Lead time is about 10 weeks....

Figured I'd check eBay again. Used Vanquish Rc6 performance for 550.

No Brainer on the HED?

Yup go the HED. My LB wheels took a similar time 8 weeks. Arrived damaged, got sent back, arrived in China 3 weeks later, then built and sent another sent, 6 more weeks, so almost 4 months and the season was over.
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [zedzded] [ In reply to ]
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Purchased!

IG - @ryanppax
http://www.geluminati.com
Use code ST5 for $5 off your order
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [Ryanppax] [ In reply to ]
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Ryanppax wrote:
Purchased!

Nice!
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [Ryanppax] [ In reply to ]
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Ryanppax wrote:
Purchased!

Good deal on the Hed. What are now thinking for the rear? I vote Premier disc or a Hed disc to match the front.
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [Herbie Hancock] [ In reply to ]
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Herbie Hancock wrote:
Ryanppax wrote:
Purchased!


Good deal on the Hed. What are now thinking for the rear? I vote Premier disc or a Hed disc to match the front.

Can the premier take a 28 tire?
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [MrTri123] [ In reply to ]
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MrTri123 wrote:
Herbie Hancock wrote:
Ryanppax wrote:
Purchased!


Good deal on the Hed. What are now thinking for the rear? I vote Premier disc or a Hed disc to match the front.


Can the premier take a 28 tire?

I have no first hand experience with their disc wheel but the external rim width is 26.22mm so I'm assuming a 28mm tire would fit. Albeit breaking the rule of 105%.
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [Herbie Hancock] [ In reply to ]
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A rim with a 15mm inside width can fit a 28mm tire.
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [Ryanppax] [ In reply to ]
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What convinced you that 28mm was faster than 23 or 25mm when considering aero & rr? (and weight, but let's not get crazy down in the weeds just yet).

I'm curious because I was still of the mind that 25-27mm measured width might be faster than 28-30mm widths, in most cases. (Due to aero)

I might be behind the times.

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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [DrAlexHarrison] [ In reply to ]
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DrAlexHarrison wrote:
What convinced you that 28mm was faster than 23 or 25mm when considering aero & rr? (and weight, but let's not get crazy down in the weeds just yet).

I'm curious because I was still of the mind that 25-27mm measured width might be faster than 28-30mm widths, in most cases. (Due to aero)

I might be behind the times.

Like you, I’m not convinced a wider tire is faster. A lot depends on whether you’re running discs or rim brakes. It’s pretty tough to find a rim brake wheel that can accomplish the 105% ratio with a 28mm tire, and even if you can find a good pairing, it’s likely that it won’t work well in your rim brake fork.

The equation changes with disc brakes, but that comes with its own set of issues.
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [DrAlexHarrison] [ In reply to ]
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DrAlexHarrison wrote:
What convinced you that 28mm was faster than 23 or 25mm when considering aero & rr? (and weight, but let's not get crazy down in the weeds just yet).

I'm curious because I was still of the mind that 25-27mm measured width might be faster than 28-30mm widths, in most cases. (Due to aero)

I might be behind the times.

This doesn't always hold true because there's a hundred different tyresand wheels, but generally having a tire that is narrower (when inflated, actual width) than the rim will be more aero than the other way around. To my understanding this is mainly due to the trailing edge, and how horribly inefficient a round body is at the back of the airflow.

You could run a 21-23mm on a 25mm rim, but the rolling resistance in most cases would outweigh the aero benefits. On a 27mm rim you could run a 25mm tyre and get lower rr for marginally worse aero. In all likelihood 21mm rims are faster at higher speeds and 27mm rims are faster at lower speeds, but again, very dependent on rim shape and tire selection.

I realize this isn't helpful at all.
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [mathematics] [ In reply to ]
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mathematics wrote:
Unpopular opinion but AliExpress is a goldmine for bike parts, wheels included. Order now to get before the season.

25mm v 28mm depends entirely on the speed that you're traveling. At 25mph+ it's going to favor the 25mm, but that's also hugely dependent on the wheel and frame interaction as well as the road surface. at <20mph it will probably favor the 28mm, but above caveats still apply.

Tri spokes are cool, but they can't be trued and once interaction with the fork blades is considered are basically the same as deep dish. They're also generally more expensive.

Tubeless compatible is nice but IMO narrows your options unnecessarily. Latex tubes and tubeless regularly test exactly the same RR.

A disc cover is less cool and very slightly slower than a disc, but on a good rim it's within the range of fastest disc to slowest disc. Wheel/tire interaction again is key.

I guess the take home message is that differences between modern wheels can be entirely cancelled out or augmented by tire and frame interaction. I'd buy the cheapest ones you can find that have a modern lenticular profile and not fret too much about the rest. Getting your skinsuit tailored is going to be 10x the gain at 1/10th the cost.

I agree with this. I've had good luck with wheels from Ali when working with a legit seller. I used to order rims and build myself on dt Swiss hubs... Did this for a number of friends. Only ever had one problem and that was a guy who manualed his bike right into a curb at speed on a lightweight carbon xc rim.

Just bought a 60/75 F/R combo and disc rear for $1400. Feel free to PM me if you want details.
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [jimatbeyond] [ In reply to ]
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jimatbeyond wrote:
littlefoot wrote:
jimatbeyond wrote:
littlefoot wrote:
jimatbeyond wrote:
Why didn't they wipe the dirt off of it?


My exact thought also. Why take the time to post an expensive disc wheel that is dirty.

Also, why I suggested not buying from someone who doesn't have 100% rating was for his situation, which is buying a big ticket item from an unknown source. Plus, if he gets it and it doesn't work for him, he's out of luck...and money.

I err on the side of caution when looking at reviews and pics of things, as well as percent rating. Under 98, an automatic no go for me.



How would you lose your money when buying from an eBay seller and the product is broken or doesn't work?


Not willing to find that out. There's typically a reason the ratings are the way they are...I do research their rating before buying or deciding not to buy. But, in the end, it my money and my call.



Have you ever read eBay's Money Back Guarantee?


Welcome to the Fuck around and find out portion of the story.

Both wheels were from the same seller.
Rear wheel showed a little warping in the rim bead..didn't seem too bad. Upon further inspection on another part of a wheel it is cracked. So we will see how good that money back guarantee is.
Front wheel looked fine but after finding a problem with the rear i gave it another look. Put it on the bike and it's very out of true.. Is this a show stopper or fixable.
Pics and vid attached.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/fX2Fczbhc9LFb7QT6


Edit: refund in the works with seller

IG - @ryanppax
http://www.geluminati.com
Use code ST5 for $5 off your order
Last edited by: Ryanppax: Jan 22, 24 18:41
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Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [mathematics] [ In reply to ]
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mathematics wrote:
DrAlexHarrison wrote:
What convinced you that 28mm was faster than 23 or 25mm when considering aero & rr? (and weight, but let's not get crazy down in the weeds just yet).

I'm curious because I was still of the mind that 25-27mm measured width might be faster than 28-30mm widths, in most cases. (Due to aero)

I might be behind the times.


This doesn't always hold true because there's a hundred different tyresand wheels, but generally having a tire that is narrower (when inflated, actual width) than the rim will be more aero than the other way around. To my understanding this is mainly due to the trailing edge, and how horribly inefficient a round body is at the back of the airflow.

You could run a 21-23mm on a 25mm rim, but the rolling resistance in most cases would outweigh the aero benefits. On a 27mm rim you could run a 25mm tyre and get lower rr for marginally worse aero. In all likelihood 21mm rims are faster at higher speeds and 27mm rims are faster at lower speeds, but again, very dependent on rim shape and tire selection.

I realize this isn't helpful at all.

It's not a given that a wider tire is faster when you make appropriate adjustments for pressures. There a number of useful charts in this test report, but so you don't have to do the mental gymnastics, there's a chart that already shows what happens when you make said appropriate adjustments to pressure as the tires get wider. Spoiler: the 23mm is fastest.

https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/...prix-5000-comparison
Quote Reply
Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [zedzded] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
I actually ordered the newest disc from LB...they've been really slow & first wheel didn't pass inspection for QC they wrote to me just last week. Then yesterday, they asked if I would be willing to allow them to send it with a small sticker instead of their "customer colored sticker choices"--because they couldn't get them to stick properly I guess. So I said sure. To some it may look like Light Bicycle is having all sorts of production problems--to some degree and nearly 3 months later and no wheel--that could be true (they are seemingly slow to get it here). However, you could also look at it like they are making sure it arrives as well made and having met all of their QC steps--even if it means a delay. I guess we will see what else they email me on...it better be true & not have a bunch of issues or it'll be the last one I order from them. Then again, it could be awesome...
Quote Reply
Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [Ryanppax] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
Ryanppax wrote:
jimatbeyond wrote:
littlefoot wrote:
jimatbeyond wrote:
littlefoot wrote:
jimatbeyond wrote:
Why didn't they wipe the dirt off of it?


My exact thought also. Why take the time to post an expensive disc wheel that is dirty.

Also, why I suggested not buying from someone who doesn't have 100% rating was for his situation, which is buying a big ticket item from an unknown source. Plus, if he gets it and it doesn't work for him, he's out of luck...and money.

I err on the side of caution when looking at reviews and pics of things, as well as percent rating. Under 98, an automatic no go for me.



How would you lose your money when buying from an eBay seller and the product is broken or doesn't work?


Not willing to find that out. There's typically a reason the ratings are the way they are...I do research their rating before buying or deciding not to buy. But, in the end, it my money and my call.



Have you ever read eBay's Money Back Guarantee?


Welcome to the Fuck around and find out portion of the story.

Both wheels were from the same seller.
Rear wheel showed a little warping in the rim bead..didn't seem too bad. Upon further inspection on another part of a wheel it is cracked. So we will see how good that money back guarantee is.
Front wheel looked fine but after finding a problem with the rear i gave it another look. Put it on the bike and it's very out of true.. Is this a show stopper or fixable.
Pics and vid attached.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/fX2Fczbhc9LFb7QT6


Edit: refund in the works with seller



The eBay Money Back Guarantee is as solid as it gets. If you file a SNAD complaint, you will get a 100% refund and the seller gets to pay for return shipping.

I purchased four sets of glassware (coupes, nick and nora, martini glasses) from a seller in Italy in December. All of them were chipped or broken in transit. I filed a SNAD complaint with eBay for each purchase and received all of my money back.

I have done this at least twenty times in the past ten years.
Last edited by: jimatbeyond: Jan 22, 24 23:14
Quote Reply
Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [Mudge] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
Mudge wrote:
mathematics wrote:
DrAlexHarrison wrote:
What convinced you that 28mm was faster than 23 or 25mm when considering aero & rr? (and weight, but let's not get crazy down in the weeds just yet).

I'm curious because I was still of the mind that 25-27mm measured width might be faster than 28-30mm widths, in most cases. (Due to aero)

I might be behind the times.


This doesn't always hold true because there's a hundred different tyresand wheels, but generally having a tire that is narrower (when inflated, actual width) than the rim will be more aero than the other way around. To my understanding this is mainly due to the trailing edge, and how horribly inefficient a round body is at the back of the airflow.

You could run a 21-23mm on a 25mm rim, but the rolling resistance in most cases would outweigh the aero benefits. On a 27mm rim you could run a 25mm tyre and get lower rr for marginally worse aero. In all likelihood 21mm rims are faster at higher speeds and 27mm rims are faster at lower speeds, but again, very dependent on rim shape and tire selection.

I realize this isn't helpful at all.


It's not a given that a wider tire is faster when you make appropriate adjustments for pressures. There a number of useful charts in this test report, but so you don't have to do the mental gymnastics, there's a chart that already shows what happens when you make said appropriate adjustments to pressure as the tires get wider. Spoiler: the 23mm is fastest.

https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/...prix-5000-comparison

In these charts the minimum RR is the 32mm with 7.8w where the 23 was the slowest at 8.5w. They do a test with a 15% tire drop, but as they even state, that's not a great test as 15% of a 32mm is more than 15% of 23mm. One of the reasons for running wider tires is to reduce this drop and theoretically reduce rolling resistance. Right below that is a test with a 4mm drop that shows a straight line among tires. This is a better test, but keep in mind that a 4mm drop with static weight says nothing about the tire's ability to absorb road imperfections larger (or smaller) than the diamond plate roller. Stands to reason the 23 would be fastest on a wooden track at high psi and the 32 would be fastest on gravel at low psi, but we intuitively knew that already.

Finally, and most importantly, all of these tests were done on a 700x17mm rim. That setup is going to heavily favor a narrower tire with the hysteresis losses on the ballooned out wide tire being comparatively greater than if they were on a wider rim. The cross sectional degrees that the tire encompasses are greater for a wider tire or narrower rim.
Quote Reply
Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [Rocky M] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
When a company is having a problem getting their stickers to stick on a wheel. Not sure I’m going to have a lot of trust going down the hill at 40 miles an hour in that wheel

A few hundred bucks saved isn’t worth my life
Last edited by: MrTri123: Jan 23, 24 6:29
Quote Reply
Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [mathematics] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
mathematics wrote:
Mudge wrote:
mathematics wrote:
DrAlexHarrison wrote:
What convinced you that 28mm was faster than 23 or 25mm when considering aero & rr? (and weight, but let's not get crazy down in the weeds just yet).

I'm curious because I was still of the mind that 25-27mm measured width might be faster than 28-30mm widths, in most cases. (Due to aero)

I might be behind the times.


This doesn't always hold true because there's a hundred different tyresand wheels, but generally having a tire that is narrower (when inflated, actual width) than the rim will be more aero than the other way around. To my understanding this is mainly due to the trailing edge, and how horribly inefficient a round body is at the back of the airflow.

You could run a 21-23mm on a 25mm rim, but the rolling resistance in most cases would outweigh the aero benefits. On a 27mm rim you could run a 25mm tyre and get lower rr for marginally worse aero. In all likelihood 21mm rims are faster at higher speeds and 27mm rims are faster at lower speeds, but again, very dependent on rim shape and tire selection.

I realize this isn't helpful at all.


It's not a given that a wider tire is faster when you make appropriate adjustments for pressures. There a number of useful charts in this test report, but so you don't have to do the mental gymnastics, there's a chart that already shows what happens when you make said appropriate adjustments to pressure as the tires get wider. Spoiler: the 23mm is fastest.

https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/...prix-5000-comparison


In these charts the minimum RR is the 32mm with 7.8w where the 23 was the slowest at 8.5w. They do a test with a 15% tire drop, but as they even state, that's not a great test as 15% of a 32mm is more than 15% of 23mm. One of the reasons for running wider tires is to reduce this drop and theoretically reduce rolling resistance. Right below that is a test with a 4mm drop that shows a straight line among tires. This is a better test, but keep in mind that a 4mm drop with static weight says nothing about the tire's ability to absorb road imperfections larger (or smaller) than the diamond plate roller. Stands to reason the 23 would be fastest on a wooden track at high psi and the 32 would be fastest on gravel at low psi, but we intuitively knew that already.

Finally, and most importantly, all of these tests were done on a 700x17mm rim. That setup is going to heavily favor a narrower tire with the hysteresis losses on the ballooned out wide tire being comparatively greater than if they were on a wider rim. The cross sectional degrees that the tire encompasses are greater for a wider tire or narrower rim.


The 7.8w minimum RR figure for the 32mm wide tire came at a pressure that no one would/could ever ride IRL, so that figure is meaningless. IOW, an untenable course of action is not a course of action. You can and should disregard that figure. Whether you want to use the simplistic 15% drop, or extrapolate the resistance by taking reasonable real life pressures from the earlier charts in the report, what you'll find is that for all intents and purposes, there's nothing in it. For a given tire model, when adjusting the pressures relative to the width, the rolling resistance differences are minimal. With that in mind, the question then becomes one of which tire/rim combo is aero optimized.

Given that a 28mm nominal width tire will balloon out to 30-32mm or more on a wider internal width rim, to get the magical 1.05 ratio, the outer width of the rim has to be pretty substantial. It's almost a given that such a rim won't work in a rim-brake bike. Seems to me that for most rims, even on disc brake set ups, the optimal nominal tire width would be a 25, as it will balloon out to 27-28mm or so when inflated. You'll get reasonable comfort/traction benefits, essentially identical rolling resistance, and far better aero drag figures than you would with an even wider tire.

Before anyone pipes in with "but the pros are going to 32s", keep in mind that they're only doing that for road racing, not time trials. The considerations change when drafting is introduced and pure aero optimization isn't so important.
Last edited by: Mudge: Jan 23, 24 8:33
Quote Reply
Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [MrTri123] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
MrTri123 wrote:
When a company is having a problem getting their stickers to stick on a wheel. Not sure I’m going to have a lot of trust going down the hill at 40 miles an hour in that wheel

A few hundred bucks saved isn’t worth my life
Given your paucity of information it does not mean the wheel is the problem. It could entirely be the sticker manufacturer's glue. Cee Gees had batches of bad glue on their arm rests--does that mean you wouldn't use them ever because of it? I would hardly judge a brand off an issue with stickers. The reviews of LB were very good actually, even used by mountain bikers for AT riding. People probably shouldn't use Zipp wheels then either--because of the past hub & QR recalls/issues they had (and all the weight is on those two components of a bike)...
Quote Reply
Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [Mudge] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
Mudge wrote:
mathematics wrote:
Mudge wrote:
mathematics wrote:
DrAlexHarrison wrote:
What convinced you that 28mm was faster than 23 or 25mm when considering aero & rr? (and weight, but let's not get crazy down in the weeds just yet).

I'm curious because I was still of the mind that 25-27mm measured width might be faster than 28-30mm widths, in most cases. (Due to aero)

I might be behind the times.


This doesn't always hold true because there's a hundred different tyresand wheels, but generally having a tire that is narrower (when inflated, actual width) than the rim will be more aero than the other way around. To my understanding this is mainly due to the trailing edge, and how horribly inefficient a round body is at the back of the airflow.

You could run a 21-23mm on a 25mm rim, but the rolling resistance in most cases would outweigh the aero benefits. On a 27mm rim you could run a 25mm tyre and get lower rr for marginally worse aero. In all likelihood 21mm rims are faster at higher speeds and 27mm rims are faster at lower speeds, but again, very dependent on rim shape and tire selection.

I realize this isn't helpful at all.


It's not a given that a wider tire is faster when you make appropriate adjustments for pressures. There a number of useful charts in this test report, but so you don't have to do the mental gymnastics, there's a chart that already shows what happens when you make said appropriate adjustments to pressure as the tires get wider. Spoiler: the 23mm is fastest.

https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/...prix-5000-comparison


In these charts the minimum RR is the 32mm with 7.8w where the 23 was the slowest at 8.5w. They do a test with a 15% tire drop, but as they even state, that's not a great test as 15% of a 32mm is more than 15% of 23mm. One of the reasons for running wider tires is to reduce this drop and theoretically reduce rolling resistance. Right below that is a test with a 4mm drop that shows a straight line among tires. This is a better test, but keep in mind that a 4mm drop with static weight says nothing about the tire's ability to absorb road imperfections larger (or smaller) than the diamond plate roller. Stands to reason the 23 would be fastest on a wooden track at high psi and the 32 would be fastest on gravel at low psi, but we intuitively knew that already.

Finally, and most importantly, all of these tests were done on a 700x17mm rim. That setup is going to heavily favor a narrower tire with the hysteresis losses on the ballooned out wide tire being comparatively greater than if they were on a wider rim. The cross sectional degrees that the tire encompasses are greater for a wider tire or narrower rim.


The 7.8w minimum RR figure for the 32mm wide tire came at a pressure that no one would/could ever ride IRL, so that figure is meaningless. IOW, an untenable course of action is not a course of action. You can and should disregard that figure. Whether you want to use the simplistic 15% drop, or extrapolate the resistance by taking reasonable real life pressures from the earlier charts in the report, what you'll find is that for all intents and purposes, there's nothing in it. For a given tire model, when adjusting the pressures relative to the width, the rolling resistance differences are minimal. With that in mind, the question then becomes one of which tire/rim combo is aero optimized.

Given that a 28mm nominal width tire will balloon out to 30-32mm or more on a wider internal width rim, to get the magical 1.05 ratio, the outer width of the rim has to be pretty substantial. It's almost a given that such a rim won't work in a rim-brake bike. Seems to me that for most rims, even on disc brake set ups, the optimal nominal tire width would be a 25, as it will balloon out to 27-28mm or so when inflated. You'll get reasonable comfort/traction benefits, essentially identical rolling resistance, and far better aero drag figures than you would with an even wider tire.

Before anyone pipes in with "but the pros are going to 32s", keep in mind that they're only doing that for road racing, not time trials. The considerations change when drafting is introduced and pure aero optimization isn't so important.

Yes, if we don't count the data showing the wider tires being faster then the skinnier tires are faster.

But to the original point, it's likely that the entire system efficiency would be better with a wider aero rim than with a skinny aero rim (disc brakes, as stipulated by OP) no matter the tire choice. Unless it's something ridiculous like a 19mm tire on a 30mm rim. Running a skinny tire on a wide rim may not be super comfortable but is still likely to have better aerodynamics than a wider tire on the same rim. It all comes down to the speed dependent relationship, RR is king at low speed, aero is king at high speed. At the 25ish mph most people tend to race at it's a bit of a toss up for which is more important. That makes sense, if there was a clear way to optimize with wider/narrower tires brands and racers would have shifted towards that.
Quote Reply
Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [Ryanppax] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
Ryanppax wrote:
jimatbeyond wrote:
littlefoot wrote:
jimatbeyond wrote:
littlefoot wrote:
jimatbeyond wrote:
Why didn't they wipe the dirt off of it?


My exact thought also. Why take the time to post an expensive disc wheel that is dirty.

Also, why I suggested not buying from someone who doesn't have 100% rating was for his situation, which is buying a big ticket item from an unknown source. Plus, if he gets it and it doesn't work for him, he's out of luck...and money.

I err on the side of caution when looking at reviews and pics of things, as well as percent rating. Under 98, an automatic no go for me.



How would you lose your money when buying from an eBay seller and the product is broken or doesn't work?


Not willing to find that out. There's typically a reason the ratings are the way they are...I do research their rating before buying or deciding not to buy. But, in the end, it my money and my call.



Have you ever read eBay's Money Back Guarantee?


Welcome to the Fuck around and find out portion of the story.

Both wheels were from the same seller.
Rear wheel showed a little warping in the rim bead..didn't seem too bad. Upon further inspection on another part of a wheel it is cracked. So we will see how good that money back guarantee is.
Front wheel looked fine but after finding a problem with the rear i gave it another look. Put it on the bike and it's very out of true.. Is this a show stopper or fixable.
Pics and vid attached.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/fX2Fczbhc9LFb7QT6


Edit: refund in the works with seller

That sucks. Sorry to hear about it. I always take a video while I open my big ticket items to document the issues-if any. Over the top, I'm sure, but just want anything and everything documented if needed.
Quote Reply
Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [littlefoot] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
Seller claiming "ohh it must have been damaged in shipping I sent it in good condition, I had it insured.[circled a little dent in the pic of the box I sent him]..send it back and I'll do a claim"

sounds like hes just pulling shipping insurance scam. whatevs at least I get my money back. IDK how much they'll cost but my team's lbs owner offered to sell his 30mm wide CL50s for "cheap" still waiting for price and pics before I make the hour drive. If the deal is good enough I think I'll grab them. 1st choice is the CLX64 I see on the pros closet now for 700, but if the cl50 is cheap enough I may just do that and get a new disc.

IG - @ryanppax
http://www.geluminati.com
Use code ST5 for $5 off your order
Quote Reply
Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [mathematics] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
mathematics wrote:
Mudge wrote:
mathematics wrote:
Mudge wrote:
mathematics wrote:
DrAlexHarrison wrote:
What convinced you that 28mm was faster than 23 or 25mm when considering aero & rr? (and weight, but let's not get crazy down in the weeds just yet).

I'm curious because I was still of the mind that 25-27mm measured width might be faster than 28-30mm widths, in most cases. (Due to aero)

I might be behind the times.


This doesn't always hold true because there's a hundred different tyresand wheels, but generally having a tire that is narrower (when inflated, actual width) than the rim will be more aero than the other way around. To my understanding this is mainly due to the trailing edge, and how horribly inefficient a round body is at the back of the airflow.

You could run a 21-23mm on a 25mm rim, but the rolling resistance in most cases would outweigh the aero benefits. On a 27mm rim you could run a 25mm tyre and get lower rr for marginally worse aero. In all likelihood 21mm rims are faster at higher speeds and 27mm rims are faster at lower speeds, but again, very dependent on rim shape and tire selection.

I realize this isn't helpful at all.


It's not a given that a wider tire is faster when you make appropriate adjustments for pressures. There a number of useful charts in this test report, but so you don't have to do the mental gymnastics, there's a chart that already shows what happens when you make said appropriate adjustments to pressure as the tires get wider. Spoiler: the 23mm is fastest.

https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/...prix-5000-comparison


In these charts the minimum RR is the 32mm with 7.8w where the 23 was the slowest at 8.5w. They do a test with a 15% tire drop, but as they even state, that's not a great test as 15% of a 32mm is more than 15% of 23mm. One of the reasons for running wider tires is to reduce this drop and theoretically reduce rolling resistance. Right below that is a test with a 4mm drop that shows a straight line among tires. This is a better test, but keep in mind that a 4mm drop with static weight says nothing about the tire's ability to absorb road imperfections larger (or smaller) than the diamond plate roller. Stands to reason the 23 would be fastest on a wooden track at high psi and the 32 would be fastest on gravel at low psi, but we intuitively knew that already.

Finally, and most importantly, all of these tests were done on a 700x17mm rim. That setup is going to heavily favor a narrower tire with the hysteresis losses on the ballooned out wide tire being comparatively greater than if they were on a wider rim. The cross sectional degrees that the tire encompasses are greater for a wider tire or narrower rim.


The 7.8w minimum RR figure for the 32mm wide tire came at a pressure that no one would/could ever ride IRL, so that figure is meaningless. IOW, an untenable course of action is not a course of action. You can and should disregard that figure. Whether you want to use the simplistic 15% drop, or extrapolate the resistance by taking reasonable real life pressures from the earlier charts in the report, what you'll find is that for all intents and purposes, there's nothing in it. For a given tire model, when adjusting the pressures relative to the width, the rolling resistance differences are minimal. With that in mind, the question then becomes one of which tire/rim combo is aero optimized.

Given that a 28mm nominal width tire will balloon out to 30-32mm or more on a wider internal width rim, to get the magical 1.05 ratio, the outer width of the rim has to be pretty substantial. It's almost a given that such a rim won't work in a rim-brake bike. Seems to me that for most rims, even on disc brake set ups, the optimal nominal tire width would be a 25, as it will balloon out to 27-28mm or so when inflated. You'll get reasonable comfort/traction benefits, essentially identical rolling resistance, and far better aero drag figures than you would with an even wider tire.

Before anyone pipes in with "but the pros are going to 32s", keep in mind that they're only doing that for road racing, not time trials. The considerations change when drafting is introduced and pure aero optimization isn't so important.


Yes, if we don't count the data showing the wider tires being faster then the skinnier tires are faster.

But to the original point, it's likely that the entire system efficiency would be better with a wider aero rim than with a skinny aero rim (disc brakes, as stipulated by OP) no matter the tire choice. Unless it's something ridiculous like a 19mm tire on a 30mm rim. Running a skinny tire on a wide rim may not be super comfortable but is still likely to have better aerodynamics than a wider tire on the same rim. It all comes down to the speed dependent relationship, RR is king at low speed, aero is king at high speed. At the 25ish mph most people tend to race at it's a bit of a toss up for which is more important. That makes sense, if there was a clear way to optimize with wider/narrower tires brands and racers would have shifted towards that.


I'm not discounting the data showing wider tires being faster, I'm factoring in the fact that the only way to get them to be faster is to inflate them to a pressure that is unrideable in the real world. IOW, an untenable course of action is not a course of action. In decision making terms, you stop even considering an untenable course of action.

The conclusion of the test report spells it out:

"A bigger road bike tire (at least the Continental GP 4000 and GP 5000) provides a lower rolling resistance at the same air pressure. You do have to realize that at the same air pressure, a bigger tire will provide a less comfortable ride.
At the 15% tire drop air pressures, which are very close to the recommended air pressures for a given size, the tables are turned and a bigger road bike tire will have a higher rolling resistance."


And of course, there's this:
Rolling Resistance at the Same Comfort Level (4.5 mm tire drop)

Rolling Resistance at the Same Comfort Level (4.5 mm tire drop)TireGP 5000GP 5000GP 5000GP 5000Tire size23-62225-62228-62232-622Inner tubeButyl 100 grButyl 100 grButyl 130 grButyl 130 grTire drop4.5 mm4.5 mm4.5 mm4.5 mmAir pressure92 psi
6.3 bar87 psi
6.0 bar81 psi
5.6 bar75 psi
5.2 barRolling resistance11.3 Watts11.5 Watts11.4 Watts11.4 Watts
Tell me again who's ignoring data?

When normalized for reasonable real world pressures, the RR differences are quite minimal (well within the margin of error of the test). Worrying about the 0.1 W difference between tires when inflated to optimum pressure is akin to picking the fly shit out of the pepper. It certainly seems reasonable that once you've selected the right tire model, you select the size that optimizes drag reduction on your race wheels while inflated to the optimum pressure.
Last edited by: Mudge: Jan 23, 24 14:34
Quote Reply
Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [mathematics] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
Not so sure it's true that the narrowest tire you can run on any given wheel is the fastest. There were some posts from Jim at ERO talking about enve wheels, saying they were slow with 23mm tires but got a lot faster with 25mm tires. Similarly, I suspect something like the new rapide wheels are faster with a 26-28mm tire than something narrower.
Quote Reply
Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [littlefoot] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
littlefoot wrote:
Ryanppax wrote:
jimatbeyond wrote:
littlefoot wrote:
jimatbeyond wrote:
littlefoot wrote:
jimatbeyond wrote:
Why didn't they wipe the dirt off of it?


My exact thought also. Why take the time to post an expensive disc wheel that is dirty.

Also, why I suggested not buying from someone who doesn't have 100% rating was for his situation, which is buying a big ticket item from an unknown source. Plus, if he gets it and it doesn't work for him, he's out of luck...and money.

I err on the side of caution when looking at reviews and pics of things, as well as percent rating. Under 98, an automatic no go for me.



How would you lose your money when buying from an eBay seller and the product is broken or doesn't work?


Not willing to find that out. There's typically a reason the ratings are the way they are...I do research their rating before buying or deciding not to buy. But, in the end, it my money and my call.



Have you ever read eBay's Money Back Guarantee?


Welcome to the Fuck around and find out portion of the story.

Both wheels were from the same seller.
Rear wheel showed a little warping in the rim bead..didn't seem too bad. Upon further inspection on another part of a wheel it is cracked. So we will see how good that money back guarantee is.
Front wheel looked fine but after finding a problem with the rear i gave it another look. Put it on the bike and it's very out of true.. Is this a show stopper or fixable.
Pics and vid attached.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/fX2Fczbhc9LFb7QT6


Edit: refund in the works with seller

That sucks. Sorry to hear about it. I always take a video while I open my big ticket items to document the issues-if any. Over the top, I'm sure, but just want anything and everything documented if needed.


eBay doesn't look at video. You only have to submit one picture of a damaged item.
Quote Reply
Re: Help - I'm really overthinking wheel choice [Ryanppax] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
Ryanppax wrote:
Seller claiming "ohh it must have been damaged in shipping I sent it in good condition, I had it insured.[circled a little dent in the pic of the box I sent him]..send it back and I'll do a claim"

sounds like hes just pulling shipping insurance scam.


As soon as you ship it back to the seller, the seller's original insurance is void because the damage could have occurred during the return shipping. If the seller files an insurance claim, it will be denied.
Quote Reply