Yes, cassette tool.

Yes, interchangeable.

If there's a difference in performance, I haven't noticed it, though I've only used the top two tiers of Shimano/SRAM rotors, never tried something truly low end.

First off, as you say rotors are expensive, so if it's just a bit of warp/rub then a rotor truing spanner may be the better option.

Regarding the lockring tools, then yes, in theory the same as the cassette, but be aware that if you got your cassette tool a while ago (ie >10years) then there is the chance the inner will be too small and foul on some hubs.

Regarding interchangeability and cost, that's a hard one. But of all the bits that I'd seek to economise on then a rotor that has a very very long life and so a very low $/km cost (compared to tyres, chain, etc) isn't where I'd start. But your money, your call. And perhaps depends if you live in Holland vs the Alps.

https://www.ebay.com/...temis&media=COPY

Interchangeable-ish.

SRAM rotors are 1.85-2mm thick and recommended replacement thickness is 1.55mm
Shimano rotors are 1.8mm out of the box, to go with the Shimano replacement depth of 1.5mm.

It doesn't seem like much, but it's there and it can work for or against you.

Tool is the same.

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Tech writer/support on this here site. FIST school instructor and certified bike fitter. Formerly at Diamondback Bikes, LeMond Fitness, FSA, TiCycles, etc.
Coaching and bike fit - http://source-e.net/ Cyclocross blog - https://crosssports.net/ BJJ instruction - https://ballardbjj.com/

What's the typical life span of a Shimano Rotor and pads? I'm new to disc brakes this year...what's the way to measure as a litmus test, on when it's time to put in new pads?

You can just look at them. If the pad material is worn close to metal, throw them out.
Sometime when pads foul and refuse to stop squealing I toss them. I'll usually try to wear them out a bit to see if it resolves.

Thanks for the input.

I guess after reading everything I might be okay tool wise. As with most things in life it seems the answer is, it depends.

I'm not going to by an off brand or cheap out on rotors. I also don't want to spend $100 each when a $30 or $40 rotor has similar performance.

I'll just factor in a trip to the local shop by default.

You can buy Shimano's top of the line Ice Tech rotors for $59 each with free shipping.

No reason to go to a bike shop.

Here are some Dura-Ace Ice Tech rotors for $124.99 per pair with free shipping.

https://www.ebay.com/...temis&media=COPY

It's tremendously variable. I've killed a set of pads in less than an hour of cross racing, and I've had the same set of pads on my road bike for well over a year. Visual inspection of the pads periodically will give you an idea of what your wear rate is like. Replace them before the wear reaches the level of the return springs.

Rotor life is similarly variable (although much longer, generally). Measure the thickness, replace when they hit the manufacturer minimum. When you measure them, don't forget that you need to measure *where the contact patch is*. I've seen a fair number of rotors that had worn to well below safe thickness but people still thought they were fine because they were measuring at the outside edge of the rotor, where the pads never made contact.

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Tech writer/support on this here site. FIST school instructor and certified bike fitter. Formerly at Diamondback Bikes, LeMond Fitness, FSA, TiCycles, etc.
Coaching and bike fit - http://source-e.net/ Cyclocross blog - https://crosssports.net/ BJJ instruction - https://ballardbjj.com/

Well, thanks to everyone.

New wheels, tires, rotors, pads, and cassette. All very simple. It looks amazing.

Only issue is that no matter what I do, the pads and rotors drag and it's unridable. I'm on the verge of raising the white flag and taking it to a shop for help.

https://www.amazon.com/...ge?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You’re welcome. :)

The way I align the brakes is to loosen the brake bolts slightly, then hold the brake lever in so the brakes are on stongly, whilst holding the lever in, tighten the bolts with my other hand. When you release the lever the calipers/pads retract and the rotor is centred it the gap.

I did order a version of this on Amazon yesterday.

That's my last effort before I give in and pay a pro.

Loosen caliper. Install tool. Wiggle caliper. Press and hold the brake lever while tightening the caliper. Release lever. Remove tool.

That works for me.

Also make sure the rotor is straight.

The rotor could be bent. I had a brand new shimano rotor that for the life of me I could not get to not rub no matter how many times I recentered the brakes. Eventually took it to my mechanic and he fixed it in 2 minutes after seeing the rotor wasn't 100% true. I still need to buy that rotor bending tool.

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blog

Which rotors did you get?

Shimano RT-MT800-M

Did you push the pistons back into the brake caliper before installing the new pads/rotor?

I did.

I fact, I did the SRAM piston reset routine from the service manual and cleaned everything up as well.

The tool is a game changer. It pretty much fixed the problem.

I'll let the pads bed in and recheck everything.

I'll also plan to bleed the system sometime soon.

Full disclosure when I changed to disc brake bikes and constantly swapping wheels I ran into this myself and I was crying the blues to a buddy, also on this forum, and he sent me the link I sent you with the instruction I sent you.

Been good for years. Keep one tool at home and one in my race tool pack just in case.

Also periodically check the rotors for straightness and tweak as necessary.

Really glad you got it sorted. Happy riding.