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Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [danen1973] [ In reply to ]
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danen1973 wrote:
I have a P5 six with Aduro aero bar. I've had the bike for 3 years now. The other day I decided to look into removing one or two spacers but had a hard time removing many of the screws that needed to be removed. I ended up stripping the heads on 4 screws. The ones that I was able to take off were covered in corrosion. The aluminium is corroding around the screws, I can see the white powder fall out as I take out the screw. I'm not sure what material the screws are made out of but the heads are very easy to strip. Has anyone else seen/had this issue? Any ideas how to resolve it? Is there a warranty that might cover it?
At this point I'm stuck, I don't see how I'm going to make any adjustments.

Thanks


See post above.

No warranty will cover poor upkeep of your exceptionally expensive bicycle...
Last edited by: James Haycraft: Feb 13, 17 13:05
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Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [James Haycraft] [ In reply to ]
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I've only taken that risk on the caps, not the V's yet.

I also have a bolt removing tool that is less risky, but not as fun.
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Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [James Haycraft] [ In reply to ]
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Poor upkeep? I didn't see anywhere that I'm supposed to take out the screws and lubricate them every month. Was that listed somewhere and I missed it? My bike was never on the trainer. It's impossible for the sweat to get into some of those screws. They are on the underside of the aero bar.
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Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [danen1973] [ In reply to ]
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danen1973 wrote:
Poor upkeep? I didn't see anywhere that I'm supposed to take out the screws and lubricate them every month. Was that listed somewhere and I missed it? My bike was never on the trainer.


Actually, your Cervelo owner's manual that comes with every single Cervelo sold at a dealer (and potentially by re-sellers) list specific service intervals and recommendations for various parts of your bicycle, including fastener maintenance and handlebar specific pointers.

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It's impossible for the sweat to get into some of those screws. They are on the underside of the aero bar.


hahahaha. good one.

Sorry about your bike, but you are facing the harsh reality of poor upkeep. Either your own misunderstanding of a bicycle and its maintenance or your shop failing to do it for you or tell you that it should be done in the first place.

ETA - in case you're curious, I actually did pull out my S5 owner's manual to check and make sure I was right.

Further edit to add:

danen 1973 wrote:
Does anyone know where I could find replacement screws (6 of them) that hold the brake overs? Mine rusted out and it just looks bad. I'd like to replace them.

http://forum.slowtwitch.com/...ost=5810802#p5810802


I rest my case.
Last edited by: James Haycraft: Feb 13, 17 17:04
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Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [ In reply to ]
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guys question: magura brakes is there a difference between back calipers and front ones? Seems my back brake needs to be replaced and luckily enough my buddy has a spare lying around but a front one...
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Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [R2] [ In reply to ]
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Yes they are different. The length of the bolts (that go into the frame) is different.


R2 wrote:
guys question: magura brakes is there a difference between back calipers and front ones? Seems my back brake needs to be replaced and luckily enough my buddy has a spare lying around but a front one...
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Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [James Haycraft] [ In reply to ]
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What case are you resting here? Is this a courtroom? Someone on trial?

I was looking for help here and not remarks that do not help me. Some responded with suggestions and I appreciate it. You James Haycroft didn't really help. Do you even own a P5?

The point I was trying to make here is the aluminium is corroding around the screws. One poster suggested that I back out the screws (I think there are about 12 screws) once a month and apply some solution that would prevent that. My issue is that i can't take out some of them because the head is stripped. I was looking for assistance here. I also found it odd that they would design an aero bar that would, as part of the regular maintenance, require one to back out the screws every month and "lube" them. How many P5 owners do that on regular basis?

The issue with rusted screws is completely different. How does one prevent screws from rusting?





James Haycraft wrote:
danen1973 wrote:
Poor upkeep? I didn't see anywhere that I'm supposed to take out the screws and lubricate them every month. Was that listed somewhere and I missed it? My bike was never on the trainer.


Actually, your Cervelo owner's manual that comes with every single Cervelo sold at a dealer (and potentially by re-sellers) list specific service intervals and recommendations for various parts of your bicycle, including fastener maintenance and handlebar specific pointers.

Quote:
It's impossible for the sweat to get into some of those screws. They are on the underside of the aero bar.


hahahaha. good one.

Sorry about your bike, but you are facing the harsh reality of poor upkeep. Either your own misunderstanding of a bicycle and its maintenance or your shop failing to do it for you or tell you that it should be done in the first place.

ETA - in case you're curious, I actually did pull out my S5 owner's manual to check and make sure I was right.

Further edit to add:

danen 1973 wrote:
Does anyone know where I could find replacement screws (6 of them) that hold the brake overs? Mine rusted out and it just looks bad. I'd like to replace them.


http://forum.slowtwitch.com/...ost=5810802#p5810802


I rest my case.
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Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [danen1973] [ In reply to ]
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danen1973 wrote:
What case are you resting here? Is this a courtroom? Someone on trial?

I was looking for help here and not remarks that do not help me. Some responded with suggestions and I appreciate it. You James Haycraft didn't really help. Do you even own a P5?

The point I was trying to make here is the aluminium is corroding around the screws. One poster suggested that I back out the screws (I think there are about 12 screws) once a month and apply some solution that would prevent that. My issue is that i can't take out some of them because the head is stripped. I was looking for assistance here. I also found it odd that they would design an aero bar that would, as part of the regular maintenance, require one to back out the screws every month and "lube" them. How many P5 owners do that on regular basis?

The issue with rusted screws is completely different. How does one prevent screws from rusting?

I did help you, I pointed out to you an issue that you can keep in mind heading forward during your ownership of bicycles. You cannot simply leave the bicycle unattended to maintenance-wise. ALL of the bolts on the bike should be checked routinely (this is also in your owner's manual). Your brake cover bolts rusted because you sweat and sport drink'd all over them and then didn't wash it off after a ride. This is the same reason your cockpit bolts are fused and consequently you have stripped the heads on all of them.

I owned a P5 for 3 years and then sold it in "like new" condition because I actually treated it with care and respect. Most triathletes treat bikes as you do: poorly. I also sold, fitted, and worked on a great many P5s (both the P5-3 and the P5-6).

EVERY SINGLE TRI BIKE has a multitude of bolts in and around the cockpit area. EVERY SINGLE ONE OF THOSE BIKES should be taken care of in the same way I have detailed here. Yours is just a multi-thousand dollar cockpit; it's no different functionally from a $100 aerobar setup.

It's just laughable that people blame the bike for issues that they could have prevented. Your bike hates you.
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Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [James Haycraft] [ In reply to ]
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James,

you are still too young to be getting bitter via time spent with the significant other ;) please wait until you hit at least 40 and/or divorce or both :) actually the bitter leaves with the divorce, or it should. so, over 40 to become a grumpy old man. it's our club

bolts rust, yes, and head of bolts snap off when over tightened, which we will then blame on the manufacturer for not making them out of unobitanium as well
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Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [James Haycraft] [ In reply to ]
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What a tool.

I didn't ask for help how I can prevent this from happening in the future. I already figured out how to prevent it without your input and don't really need some troll to tell me that. I was asking if anyone experienced this issue and if/how they resolved it. Not blaming the bike or the manufacturer. If there was a slim chance that a warranty covered it I surely was going to follow up on that. Nothing wrong with that.




James Haycraft wrote:
danen1973 wrote:
What case are you resting here? Is this a courtroom? Someone on trial?

I was looking for help here and not remarks that do not help me. Some responded with suggestions and I appreciate it. You James Haycraft didn't really help. Do you even own a P5?

The point I was trying to make here is the aluminium is corroding around the screws. One poster suggested that I back out the screws (I think there are about 12 screws) once a month and apply some solution that would prevent that. My issue is that i can't take out some of them because the head is stripped. I was looking for assistance here. I also found it odd that they would design an aero bar that would, as part of the regular maintenance, require one to back out the screws every month and "lube" them. How many P5 owners do that on regular basis?

The issue with rusted screws is completely different. How does one prevent screws from rusting?


I did help you, I pointed out to you an issue that you can keep in mind heading forward during your ownership of bicycles. You cannot simply leave the bicycle unattended to maintenance-wise. ALL of the bolts on the bike should be checked routinely (this is also in your owner's manual). Your brake cover bolts rusted because you sweat and sport drink'd all over them and then didn't wash it off after a ride. This is the same reason your cockpit bolts are fused and consequently you have stripped the heads on all of them.

I owned a P5 for 3 years and then sold it in "like new" condition because I actually treated it with care and respect. Most triathletes treat bikes as you do: poorly. I also sold, fitted, and worked on a great many P5s (both the P5-3 and the P5-6).

EVERY SINGLE TRI BIKE has a multitude of bolts in and around the cockpit area. EVERY SINGLE ONE OF THOSE BIKES should be taken care of in the same way I have detailed here. Yours is just a multi-thousand dollar cockpit; it's no different functionally from a $100 aerobar setup.

It's just laughable that people blame the bike for issues that they could have prevented. Your bike hates you.
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Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [danen1973] [ In reply to ]
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I'm sorry that I hurt your feelings. I hope you try Chris10's suggestions as they were obviously more immediately helpful than mine. What he says is what a bike shop would try to do as well.

While you're investigated the nuts and bolts of your bike, I'd also suggest removing the rear brake cover and cleaning out the debris that's likely in there, also cleaning and checking your rear Magura RT brake as well.

While you're at it, also remove the rear wheel and open the rear battery compartment to get access to the rear brake bolt; I'd clean that and inspect it at the same time.

With your rear wheel out, I'd also check your dropout screws to see how they're faring. Pull them all the way out, clean and grease them since it's easy with the wheel out.

With your bike back together and cleaned and lubed as necessary, I'd also suggest pulling out and cleaning the seatpost/seat tube area as debris likely has accumulated in there. Re-apply some carbon assembly compound on the seatpost before inserting it back into the frame. Tighten seat post bolts (after checking to see that the bolts themselves are clean and free of rust/corrosion then applying some grease to the head and threads) to torque as mentioned in the owner's manual.

Now that the seat post is back in, go ahead and remove your saddle from the saddle clamp (after marking your fore/aft position and eyeball checking slant) so you can clean, inspect, and lube/grease the clamping mechanism. Put it all back together to original spec and tighten to torque spec.

Those are things I'd probably be doing at least once a quarter. To any bike.
Last edited by: James Haycraft: Feb 15, 17 9:02
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Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [James Haycraft] [ In reply to ]
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Thank you James Haycraft. All of those recommendations are right on and I'll be sure to follow them.

Thank you


James Haycraft wrote:
I'm sorry that I hurt your feelings. I hope you try Chris10's suggestions as they were obviously more immediately helpful than mine. What he says is what a bike shop would try to do as well.

While you're investigated the nuts and bolts of your bike, I'd also suggest removing the rear brake cover and cleaning out the debris that's likely in there, also cleaning and checking your rear Magura RT brake as well.

While you're at it, also remove the rear wheel and open the rear battery compartment to get access to the rear brake bolt; I'd clean that and inspect it at the same time.

With your rear wheel out, I'd also check your dropout screws to see how they're faring. Pull them all the way out, clean and grease them since it's easy with the wheel out.

With your bike back together and cleaned and lubed as necessary, I'd also suggest pulling out and cleaning the seatpost/seat tube area as debris likely has accumulated in there. Re-apply some carbon assembly compound on the seatpost before inserting it back into the frame. Tighten seat post bolts (after checking to see that the bolts themselves are clean and free of rust/corrosion then applying some grease to the head and threads) to torque as mentioned in the owner's manual.

Now that the seat post is back in, go ahead and remove your saddle from the saddle clamp (after marking your fore/aft position and eyeball checking slant) so you can clean, inspect, and lube/grease the clamping mechanism. Put it all back together to original spec and tighten to torque spec.

Those are things I'd probably be doing at least once a quarter. To any bike.
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Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [danen1973] [ In reply to ]
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i guess i cannot just move my bolts from the old rear brake to the spare front one? Sorry noob question.
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P5-6 with Reynolds RZR 92 [ In reply to ]
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Hi guys,

I was wondering if anyone here have their P5 set up with RZR 92? My rear wheel completed stuck and cannot spin at all. I removed the spacers on the brake pads and it still cannot move. Should I chip some pads off?

Or I did something wrong?

Thank you very much for your time and help
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Re: P5-6 with Reynolds RZR 92 [bagel0210] [ In reply to ]
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Another method is to move your wheel a bit backwards. You'll have to move your brake pads backwards too on the caliper and you'll see their distance towards each other will increase.
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Re: P5-6 with Reynolds RZR 92 [longtrousers] [ In reply to ]
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Thanks that worked!!! But will it causes any danger on the road? I think I might get the zip 404/808 in the future. But I heard the width are the same for rzr and zip 808
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Re: P5-6 with Reynolds RZR 92 [bagel0210] [ In reply to ]
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bagel0210 wrote:
Thanks that worked!!! But will it causes any danger on the road? I think I might get the zip 404/808 in the future. But I heard the width are the same for rzr and zip 808

why would it be dangerous?

there is a reason the dropouts can be adjusted....
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Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [Herbert] [ In reply to ]
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What stem length is on the aduro p5-6?
Thanks
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Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [bruno82] [ In reply to ]
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It is 90mm
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Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [RobW] [ In reply to ]
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how are people removing the olives from the brake hose? im changing frames and dont want to cut the hose as position will be same on the new frame.

thanks,
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Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [timujin] [ In reply to ]
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timujin wrote:
how are people removing the olives from the brake hose? im changing frames and dont want to cut the hose as position will be same on the new frame.

thanks,

I did the operation two times, the first time I took new hoses and the second time I cut the hose with the olive so that I remained with a shorter hose. This worked by chance because the hose was long enough.

I do not think you can remove the olive from the hose. If you do not have enough hoselength you'll have to use a new hose (which implies some work because you must mount the hose to the metal part which mounts to the brake leaver. You need to do that with a hammer. Anyway, this is documented somewhere in the internet.)
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Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [longtrousers] [ In reply to ]
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Thanks!!

I cannot wait to get rid of this shit Magura nonsense... has to be the worst braking system...
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Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [timujin] [ In reply to ]
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timujin wrote:
Thanks!!

I cannot wait to get rid of this shit Magura nonsense... has to be the worst braking system...

Are you nuts? Hydraulic rim brakes make perfect sense on a TT bike. Internal cable runs and tight turns make for poor braking on most TT setups. The Magura braking is pretty good.
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Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [RobW] [ In reply to ]
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Maybe.... but to take out a spacer or change the set up needs removal of the entire brake cable... I don't brake that much in a TT so omega x will replace these when they get delivered
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Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [timujin] [ In reply to ]
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timujin wrote:
Maybe.... but to take out a spacer or change the set up needs removal of the entire brake cable... I don't brake that much in a TT so omega x will replace these when they get delivered

You don't train on your P5 then? I don't often need good braking in TTs either but I definitely appreciate it when on training rides.

Having to remove cables to remove spacers isn't really Magura's fault, that's a Cervelo design decision. The price you pay for hiding those cables.
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