I'm having a hard time understanding how they are shifting on the base bar. Is it when you apply lateral pressure to the extensions?

Are you able to post pictures with the upper half of the Anemoi removed how you have it attached to the base bar?

What are you using to torque them to the recommended 5nm?

They are essentially twisting on the basebar when there is lateral pressure on the bars. The leverage is enough that it doesn't take much more than me to move my hands.

As far as attachment. I've tried top down bolts and bottom up. Per their guidance and neither seems to help. Everything is tightened to spec.

I even tried tightening beyond spec based on their guidance but at some point I'm worried about my carbon base bar.

I personally think the crux of the problem is that the bolts on the riser slide through a slot, not a hole. Per their instructions both bolts need to be in the back slot and there just isn't enough leverage to stop it from twisting.

However, they said many people have used this on the felt basebar and I figured at least one other person had to buy on ST

I've attached some pics of the bolt up approach. With the bolts coming up through the basebar and attaching with their countersunk bolts.

The bolt down approach is also attached but ultimately has the same problem.

Edit:
Looks like I can't attach stuff. So here is a video and the picture

https://photos.app.goo.gl/d3aZjvQCVj3897zh7

Super helpful pics and video. When the movement occurs, where is the sliding happening? Is the only movement between the base bar and riser or is the screw moving "on top" as well? It doesn't look like from the bottom up bolting arrangement that there is any room with the nuts for them to move left/right so all of the movement is from the play around the bolt holes. If that is correct from what i'm seeing, have you tried some carbon paste between the bar and riser before torqueing to see if that gives enough bite to prevent the movement?

The only movement is between the basebar and the risers. Not the bolts. It's basically the riser rotating on the screws.

They suggested grip tape. Wouldn't carbon paste wash away?

My hesitation with the grip tape or paste is just that it's my front end. Holding all my weight. Loose "stuff" in that area makes me super nervous. Especially at high speed. The fact that I could move it just with my fingers seemed sketchy. But maybe I'm being paranoid?

Get in touch with them. grant is extremely helpful and could aid you in finding a solution.

I've been working with Grant. He has been very awesome.

Honestly, their support is incredible. My only frustration is that I feel like there should be very clear setup instructions for something that's listed as compatible. I feel like we're basically trying to figure out if it works or not.

Also to Grant's credit... he's been very patient with someone who is much more of a computer geek than a bike mechanic.

After probably two weeks and trying different things with him. Posting on here was sort of my last ditch effort to see what we could be missing. Especially since he said others have had this working

Is that the angle adjust spacer. I own the original designer’s version of those in the Carbonwasp brand before he helped Wattshop on the Anemoi.

IMHO I would flip the angle adjuster over and custom drill tap the plate for your basebar spacing and have the extensions the other side. Owning a similar product I know you cannot have play in the holes unless you are willing to torque things.

I made custom pad width plates for my Trinity and used grip tape just fine since my design had slots to adjust pad width.

Either drill tap for your custom basebar hole spacing or use the grip tape.

What plate do you mean? It's clear on the bottom of the riser. It's just a slit that's divided.

I'll try the grip tape as Grant suggested as well. Just seemed a little "bailing wire and duct tape."

Try a slightly shorter bolt than what you have going through the base bar. Maybe the bolt isn’t pulling enough when you tighten it. Even though you might be tightening above the specified torque if the bolt is bottoming out it going to push the stacker away.
I had similar issues when I installed the AeroCoach setup on my BMC, I used bolts that were 5mm shorter for my stackers and that prevented any rocking or rotating. The rotation thing was happening when I would attach the AeroCoach Ascalons to the reach plate. I used my own bolts that were 2mm shorter because the ones provided wouldn’t torque into the holes.
***after looking at you video 10 more times, a shorter bolt will fix that issue. M5 and M6 bolts are easy to source and I probably can send you the shorter sizes you need..***

I have a wide variety. But I'm confused why a shorter one would fix anything? There isn't a stop at either end. No matter if you do the bolt up or bolt down.

Is there some other reason? Sorry if I'm not understanding

Is the bolt head the same as the original for your stackers that you ran thru the base bar? Socket cap or socket flat? I see a button head that’s being used in the pictures. Try the same length bolt but with a socket cap going bottom to top.

I have both button head and countersunk flats. The flat countersunk I used for the bolt down. The other I used for the bolt up

Note:. I had to go get the countersunk flats bolts a d grind the diameter of them down so they would fit in the riser

The button heads are the ones that came with my felt stackers.

Ok, difference there between those and the person I think worked with Wattshop on that is that the original design used 5mm or 6mm captive nuts like the link below. They would fit inside the slot and not allow that motion in your video:
https://www.amazon.com/...3040169614&psc=1

If you do the bolt up method then they have you use countersunk barrel nuts. Like rounded versions of the ones in the link you sent

. I found their install pdf doc. Do the nuts maybe in error protrude too far thru the slot? Even a tiny amount you can barely see would mean when your torque this down it is the nut and not the base of the block being pulled tight to the bar allowing movement.

I would remove the nuts and bottom half of the tilt block and verify that.

If it is dead even or sticks out then sand it a mm shorter.

But what they have in their instructions should work assuming there isnt a tolerance issue in the parts.

If the nut protrudes too much this is why grip tape would help, it isnt so much the grip as the mm of tolerance added.

Carbon paste won’t wash out. It is what is used on things like carbon bars (even in aluminum stems) and carbon seat posts to keep them from slipping even when correctly torqued. It just adds friction between two smooth surfaces when you can’t force the friction through higher torque values.

If you check the instructions from any major manufacturer you’ll see that as a step in the assembly process. You’ll also see on some bars that they “pre-grip tape” the clamping section of the bars for the same reason.

I wanted to follow up on this thread and thank everyone for their help.

At the end of the day I should have simply followed the advice from wattshop and put some grip tape down.

I don't know why but that just seems really hokey to me at the time.

I ran to the hardware store this morning and bought some grip tape, put it down between the risers and the bar. That seemed to stop all the slipping.

If I have to try this again at another point I'll just try putting some fiber paste down. I like the idea of the tape more because it seems to protect the bars a little bit.

I did have to tighten things down more than what felt says the spec. I ended up going to 9nm instead of 6.

Thanks again everyone. I'll be sure to follow up with Grant to let him know his advice was a eventually the right way to go and I should have just listened to him.

dumb follow-up questions as I ordered the anemoi for my Felt. The grip tape as in for racquets or the abrasive stuff for ladders and stairs?

Thanks!

I did the stuff for ladders and stairs. But I suspect just in basic carbon paste would work as it's just the grit that's helping it grab.

To add one more suggestion, if you positioned the grip tape with the adhesive on the base bar to protect the carbon, you're also not allowing the grit to bite into the resin which may explain the slightly higher torque needed to stop the lateral movement.

Ive had the same issue on the last two Felt Bikes Ive owned even with the Felt spec bars. The extensions always moved.

This is the risers moving

If you're having issues with your risers moving on the stock felt setup. Try putting a small piece of gorilla tape on the inside ring clamp before putting the extension in.

Are you using the small angular washers that come with the Felt bars? The holes in the Felt base bars are slightly oversized and without these washers the extensions do have a tendency to move.

If the bottom of the new extensions do not have the small countersink as the Felt bars do it may be advisable to add a very small 1mm countersink to allow the washers to lock in and prevent the rotation.

I'm looking into the wattshop angled riser as well for my Felt. What was the stack height used? Did you have to configure a way for the Felt bridge plate?

Can you share pics of current stack and where to put the grip tape?

I've literally explored almost every option including new stem and basebar.

Thanks

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2019 Felt IA3
2022 Giant TCR Pro
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