The stays are possible but the angle is shallow and you may have heel clearance issues. I would suggest off the back of the saddle and if you are using a rear cage then off of that.

If your saddle height is such that there is no room between then the stays may be the only option

I echo previous concerns about needing some kind of plug when the hydration Fuel cell is not in place. Had my first ride in the weekend, I had taped over the hole between the seat stays as I naively thought this would keep water out. It was a pretty wet and water still managed to fill up I guess the internal cavity right up to the top, turning the bike upside down a lot of water came out!

Check to be sure the drainhole under the BB is clean and free. Sometimes excess grease from the crank can clog this region, or debris from the downtube region can as well...

Unless you are in a pretty heavy rain, it should drain out the BB if clear.

what do people do with bladder (removal, cleaning, attaching/detaching) post their rides?

I used it on a ride, only drank half the liquid and really struggled to get the rest out. ended up spending a good 15 min trying to suck it out through the straw....

there has to be a better way

I just flipp it on the backwheel. It all pours out. Use the hose to fill it up. Two tree times is ok

Is there a reason you are not just removing the bladder and dumping it out? Or are you having trouble getting the bladder out of the reservoir?

Just to be clear, the frameset on the Shiv Expert is the same as on the Shiv S-Works, other than the "Specialized" vs "S-Works" logo on the downtube and the paint, right?

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Amateur recreational hobbyist cyclist
https://www.strava.com/athletes/337152
https://vimeo.com/user11846099

Frame set geometry is the same, but the carbon layup is much different (lighter and I believe more stiff). If you are buying the complete bike, the components are different as well.

The bladder is connected at the bottom so to disconnect it, I would need to pull it out until I can see the connection. But I cannot pull it as the mouth piece on the other side is blocking it.

Andyukr wrote:

The bladder is connected at the bottom so to disconnect it, I would need to pull it out until I can see the connection. But I cannot pull it as the mouth piece on the other side is blocking it.

In Reply To:

1. Pull off the bite valve
2. Plug hydration straw with the included plug
3. Pull off the nose cone front
4. From the nose cone area, pull the upper section of the hose through the spacer stack


• Unless your straw was cut extremely short, you should now have a long section of free tubing to work with
5. Pull the bladder out of the fuel cell


• If its stubborn, pushing from the front at the same time helps
6. Once the bladder is high enough, you can disconnect the tube from the bottom for complete removal


• Leave the straw in the frame as much as possible as this makes reinstallation easier

i don't think you are right ... they are both the same carbon layer fact 11 which is used on Sworks bikes. The only difference between the bikes are components and and the writing on the frame.

Yes, the reason I ask is that the framesets are described identically on the Specialized website...



and I see this blurb on a retailer's website...

If you just want to get out and ride the Expert looks like an excellent option. The frameset uses the same FACT 11r carbon as the S-Works models, and shares their design, geometry and features. The differences are in the finishing kit, but we're still talking Ultegra Di2, so that's no real hardship. Wheels are Roval C38 carbon disc, a little shallower and less aero than their CLX cousins. The Sitero Expert Gel saddle has Ti rather than carbon rails, but the all-important Shiv Aerobar is still present and correct, providing excellent adjustability alongside the aero performance.

With that said, I haven't seen anything from Specialized clearly stating that the framesets are the same, and maybe there is a difference in layup or something else that is not captured in the "Frame" description above.

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Amateur recreational hobbyist cyclist
https://www.strava.com/athletes/337152
https://vimeo.com/user11846099

I researched it before I bought the Expert version and in an interview at the zwift tri academy in Kona Tim Don actually said it is the exact same frame. That together with what is on the Specialized website should be enough to trust that it is the exact same frame (at least to me).

Thx, yes I agree that if you take the Specialized website at face value, it would seem they are indeed the same, other than the logo and paint. And let's not kid ourselves, to the median tri consumer, that holographic S-Works logo and paint options is worth at least $1K.

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Amateur recreational hobbyist cyclist
https://www.strava.com/athletes/337152
https://vimeo.com/user11846099

The frame and fork itself are the same. The SWorks does use a lighter weight paint however.

The difference in levels is all in the group, wheels, and some accessories.

If you are piecing together your own SHIV, feel free to choose either variant based on the color you like. Although getting all of the small bits would be a major challenge so consider it in full!

Does anyone know Specialized's annual refresh timing on the Shiv? Wondering if the current configuration will get updates for 2022 at some point this year?

Hey there,
I was wondering if there is a way to adjust a disc wheel within the frame.
I am running the 321 Disc with 26-622 S-Works Turbo tires and it seems that the tire touches the fin/fuelcell when i am going hard on the bikes.
The paint came already a bit off. Is there a way to adjust this or do i simply have to run smaller tires on the back wheel?

THANKS A LOT!!!

I'd love an answer too. I'm thinking about cutting the hydration compartment and regluing the whole thing, whatever it takes so I can run my 28's

I have a size L and my girlfriend a small I believe. We have that 321 Disc wheel with the Sworks Turbo Tubless 26mm and have run it on both our bikes without any contact points and plenty of clearance room between the tire and the sail. Are you sure that tire is seated properly? I cant think of anything else that would cause it to rub of the top of my head....

That combination should clear. Since its only rubbing on "hard" efforts then it seems like there is clearance, and contact only during flex. This could be possible depending on a lot of factors such as rider weight, bike weight, tire pressure, etc...There is no way to adjust the wheel position since it is thru-axle, but the reservoir position may possibly be able to be tweaked a bit. Are you able to loosen the reservoir, hold it further from the wheel, and then tighten it in place?



This would be an extreme measure! 28s are hit or miss depending on the rim and tire. The 321 is going to be better with 26s but i understand the desire for 28s. Before cutting the reservoir, I would slot the attachment hole and slide it up. With an open underside you will collect debris and run the risk of cutting a tire

Sorry if this has been asked before but i’ve not had much luck with the search…

Where do people store their spares? Tube & a gas canister?

I’ve read online some people put them in front of the fuel cell but the di2 module is in the way for that? It’s an XS frame in case that makes a difference. At the moment i see two options, use the fuel cell for that or a rear bottle cage?

Any links or photos would be much appreciated

Below the fuel cell toward the BB. An old sunglasses sock works well

does anyone have more info to share on ride experience?

1. that seat tube/post looks straight off the tarmac, combined with the low stays i'd expect a compliant ride - is that the case (at least releative to other TT/tri bikes)?
2. on the other hand, those forks look rigid as hell - is the front end rough?
3. how practical is the hydration - is is easy to suck fluid through all the way from the back? is it practical to refill on the go?
4. what is that base bar like to ride with? it looks incredibly chunky leading to awkward climbing positions for knees and hands.

My view is surely biased but I will offer it anyway:

1. The rear end is quite compliant. I havent heard any feedback about a harsh ride over the years, and generally the ride quality is better than traditional tri-bikes
2. The fork is extremely rigid but the cockpit design minimizes any roughness in the front end. If you are slammed then it may get a tad harsher but generally the stiffness in the front leads to a more stable ride and precise steering
3. This is a very person dependent question, but a lot of time was spent to ensure sufficient flow and to incorporate a backflow resistant bite valve. Refilling on the go is not practical, but some have come up with unique solutions.
4. The basebar is comfortable from the "pistol" position. if you like to hold the bar like the tops of a drop bar, it wouldnt be that comfortable. I personally dont use this postion on this bike, and i prefer to grip the arm cups when sitting up. This is very comfortable (its padded) and unless are super narrow, is also very stable. If racing and climbing i would just continue to use the grips

Is it true that Shiv disc tri will not be produced in 2022? My seller say that it will not be replaced but not produced due lack of materials