Appreciate the feedback on this!

Also, sorry to hear about the losses from the fire, but I'm glad Chris was able to get you taken care of at our Boulder store. It certainly can't replace the memories in your home and your past bikes, but I hope the future is bright for you and your family!

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Mitchell Mathews | Community Manager | Trek Bikes | @mitchmathewz

That's a really good idea... my bike is lost in transit (not really lost.... just delayed due to weather) but I'll definitely look into that option when it arrives!

Just watched Sam Long's new video and really need the same front end arrangement that he has!!

Pics as requested. Let me know if you want close ups of any area or have questions. It looks like I should be able to get two bottles on frame and be able to access flat kit (Sam Long has this setup in latest Youtube video). One of the subtle improvements I like over the previous generation is you cannot chip the paint on the fork if you turn it 90 degs. I'm not sure what fork bumps into but it's not the frame paint. The paint looks even better in person.

There is a steer stop attached to the inside of the frame that is on the backside of the upper headset - that's the magic! Just a pro tip, don't transport the bike on its side with the fork fully rotated so that you don't put any odd pressure on the steer stop - which I doubt anyone transports their fancy tri bike in that way, but just in case!

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Mitchell Mathews | Community Manager | Trek Bikes | @mitchmathewz

Thanks for the pictures. Looks like a beautiful ride.

Just out of curiosity: what size frame is that? Also, could you expand on the BTA bottle holder solution you came up with?

Hi all,

I’m considering a Speed Concept to replace my ageing S-Works Shiv. Can anyone tell me if Trek makes a disc wheel? The deepest I can order is the 75mm from the dealer (which helps with lead time) but no disc.

Thanks.

Bryn

They don't make one. Trek sponsored athletes use rebranded wheels. Check out Roval, DT Swiss, and HED for disc wheels with modern rim widths.

Sweet ride….. took delivery of mine a couple days ago… not fitted yet and not ridden, maybe it’ll just be wall art…. So beautiful.

Frame is a large. Stock bar and stem (mid rise). I think there is one added 5mm spacer.

The mechanic at Trek was able to get the XLab Kompact 500 computer mount attached upside down to it (not pretty). No room for bottle cage though (even though it looks like there is). Waiting on official computer mount to come in.

Appreciate the details. That helps with context knowing those pictures are of a large frame with the mid rise stem.

Thanks!

Just took delivery of my 2022 Speed Concept SLR7 and can't figure out where/why they didn't include a space in the frame for a DUOTRAP? Does the Shimano groupset have a speed/cadence sensor?

Also, I can't fit a regular tube in the stow box- what brand/type/size tubes are you guys actually able to fit in there?

Lastly, what is everyone using for a Garmin Mount? My shop owner put a blendr mount on the screw hole thats probably suppose to be for future aero bar handle but the blendr he used was too short and it cracked my 1030 bracket. Can someone post solutions theyre using for this too?

Thanks

If anyone is looking for a medium ultegra build in black, trek west Phoenix has one in stock

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http://www.TriScottsdale.org

The spare holder seems like an afterthought to me. I was able to get 1 tube in there after a good deal of struggling.

I opted to just do away with the holder altogether and use the frame bottle as my spare carrier. Cut a small slit in the bottom of the bottle that goes against the frame and stuffed all spare stuff in there. Obviously this makes the bottle unusable as a bottle….but that’s ok for me.

I will be doing the same I think or just putting a bag inside the frame where the tool holder normally goes.

Mine came with the computer mount, pretty nicely built and solid unit.

I removed the downtube storage piece from the cover and put my spares in a ziploc inside the frame. I was able to fit 2 tubes, 2 co2's, inflator, and a multi-tube in there. I'm waiting for a better storage bag to replace the ziploc bag.

I'm using the bontrager blendr garmin mount designed specifically for this bike (it was an option in project one or can ordered by your dealer)... Mitch provided the part numbers a few pages back. It's different than the standard blendr mounts from trek so I'm not sure if you are using the one specifically for the speed concept or standard one. It's designed to be mounted to that center hole. You can adjust the mount to extend it further out to give room for a larger computer. Not 100% sure if it will fit a 1030 or not but there appears to be a lot of adjustability. I can fit my 830 with plenty of room to spare.

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Stevej Thanks for the reply....

What about the speed/cadence sensor for the bike? My first ride I connected the Di2 to my Garmin EPIX gen 2 (as I said my 1030 is broken), and it recorded cadence for the ride? This makes me think the new 8150 has a build in speed/cadence sensor??!

I've been combing through 8150 documentation but can't find details.

Thanks

If your crank is a power meter it highly likely includes cadence sensing. Speed would come from GPS or you'd have to add a garmin speed sensor to 1 of the hubs on the wheels.

There is no duotrap on the new bike. Do you have a power meter on your bike? Your cadence is probably coming from that. Unless you are doing aero testing, you don't need a speed sensor as gps is sufficient. If you really want one, I would just pick up one of the new garmin ones that goes around the wheel hub (it eliminates the need for a magnet on a spoke).

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I have VECTOR 3 power pedals, I just googled it and you're right, looks like the Vector 3 grabs cadence data. Perfect!

I'm ok with GPS speed data rather than adding sensors and magnets to ugly up the bike.

I figured out how to turn off syncro mode and put it in manual.

Now just need to get my 1030 back and figure out what blendr combo to use.

Thanks!

The stock computer mount came with my Project One bike. I'll check tonight so see if a 1030 fits. Based on the size it looks like it should fit.

While building it I am definitely concerned with the top cover piece that fits over the iso speed area by the seatpost. I guess you don’t often have to remove that piece but if you ever do it’ll likely break. I guess for servicing the isospeed you might have to. It’s pretty flimsy and how it connects is just bad design in my opinion. Unless there’s an easier way that I’m just not seeing.

I used a plastic rotor shim that you place in the caliper between brake pads when there’s no wheel on the bike to help pry up that little cover over the isospeed section. It seemed pretty sturdy in there and a B to get off.

Have you or anyone that has built the new bike had an issue with the circle piece that supports the inside of the saddle rails? I pushed the circle piece into the metal piece that goes on top of the seatpost but I can’t get the circle piece to spin to like adjust the saddle angle. It’s really making me angry. I also can’t find the flat rectangle washer for the seatpost wedge so that’s going to be fun to figure out how to replace.

Thanks!

I assume you loosened the seat post bolt to allow tilt (part #11 on page 15 of the service manual)? That allows you to tilt the seat post and then lock down the angle you want. Loosen it then use the leverage from the seat to tilt down/up.

Also - there's a little notch/cutout on seatpost to remove that rubber cylindrical piece inside the seat post. You have to rotate the rubber piece so it lines up with the notch in the seatpost to remove it. I was trying to flip the seatpost head and needed to remove that rubber piece in order to flip it

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After loosening the back bolt that allows the barrel to move you can stick a flat screwdriver in there for some leverage and create some extra gap if needed. I had to do this in order to get the barrel to spin if I didn't have a saddle installed for leverage).

I wonder though the more you do it do those small pins eventually wear down or damage and then the entire piece becomes loose? Not that you have to remove it often I guess.

As someone else said I pried the seatpost part open a little to rotate that part. It’s a pretty tight fit.

Dude, I am so dumb, I don't know what I didn't think of just putting the saddle in there and using it as leverage. Spins so easily now. haha. I was just pushing the cylindrical piece in and thinking, why can't I spin this by hand. Thanks guys! Anyone else missing the rectangle washer that goes in the seat post wedge?