I've had a number of them and this has never been my experience. Many BB's use these even when you buy GXP models because the smaller I.D. bearing with extended race has limited availability and is not available from high end bearing suppliers. If I ever did experience creaking, I would remove the spacer and re-repress it into the bearing with Loctite Retainer fluid.

Thanks for the heads up! i did pop by my local trek AD but there was no chance they were gonna discount anything as everything is on back order due to demand.

So I've a quandry on the bar fit. I'm pretty much on the cusp of medium / far reach toppers measuring off the current fit. Specific reach to centre of current is 487mm, or 448mm to back. The SC fit guide has 406-463 as mid topper range, and 452-511 as far.

My take here is that I'm not likely to want to go further forward than I am at the moment and if anything come back slightly. So I don't want to go far as that would limit me to current position.

Also, I can go either mid or high base bar, and in that case I'm thinking high with less tower puts the horns in a better place for climbing and less tower for fractionally more rigidity. Thoughts?

I’m guessing you’re fairly small in stature ?

To be honest the high base bar looks a bit …. Well..,kooky 🤷‍♂️

I have the mid base bar with 30mm tower and angled spacer for 14 degree rise and that’s it. Far topper. What tower size do you need? I often wish I went with the low base bar purely for aesthetics. I’d run more tower with medium base bar if I were you- more tower doesn’t look bad on these things. It’s a pinarello, but look at Gana and his stack. We aren’t on the basebar all that much either.

Damn, the photo didn't insert. Trying again. Not short, no. 6ft3", but all legs and no spine. So 780mm BB to rail puts me high, and so then a fair drop to the 675mm Y even though that's 'up in the air'.

Ahhh large then. Got ya. The mid topper thus gives you more reach than what it does for me in an medium. And yeh, long seat post you need. I thought mine was tall at 77cm to saddle top let alone 780 to the rails! You also have 5cm more stack.
In any event, I’d still go for medium base bar. The high’s really look like the bike is smiling. I think the more tower height isn’t a bad thing in your case. Have you googled some pics of bikes with high base bars ?

I have general question. I looked through a bunch of previous posts and couldn't find an answer. Working on building up a new SC. is the rear brake hose routed under or over the BB shell? There is enough clearance to run the hose under the BB, and it looks like the hose would lay down against the bottom of the frame and downtube to prevent interference with the tool kit. guessing most route it above the BB. that seems to make the hose "float" where the toolkit goes.

Hello! I'm thinking about buying a Speed Concept, and I have a question regarding the size of the bike. Currently, I have a Felt IA14 size 54 and a Madone size 56. According to Trek's size chart, I should go for an L in the Speed Concept. I'm 178 cm tall with an inseam of 87cm, and I'm not sure which size to go for. I'd love to hear from Speed Concept owners about their sizing experiences to help me decide which one to ultimately purchase.


I'm sharing some measurements from a bike fit on my triathlon bike:

• Saddle Height: 783mm
• Grip Reach: 784mm
• Handlebar Reach: 513mm
• Arm Pad Reach BB: 397mm
• Arm Pad to Grip Reach: 373mm
• BB to Grip Reach: 770mm

Thank you very much!

Didn't find too many pictures but I didn't think they looked too bad. That said, as per above picture, when I am riding and people point and laugh, or small children start crying, is highly unlikely to be the bike and much more the rider....

So now I'm really confused. There was a small typo in the reach figures the shop put into the system (20mm too long) and so there official trek system prescribed me the large frame, long reach topper, high base. Updated to 20mm shorter and new prescription is xl frame, mid reach topper, flat bar 15mm tower. Or as alternate the large.

I think for ease of travel the large frame will fit in the box easier so tempted to go that way. There reason for the recommendation of xl is that gets me away from being on cusp of the sorry between mid and far toppers and right into middle of the fire/aft adjustment range of the xl mid.

I know I only get the one set of reach toppers, but do the other 5mm and towers come with the P1 build. Or do you literally have to set your fit at time of order and don't have any parts to fine tune after?

Re sizing ignore the main size advisor, if you go onto the product page then go to the 'service' tab and then the fit guide document.

Note that saddle height on the SC is height to rail, not surface. You need your pad X and Y measurements (and even then based on my last few posts things are not clear).

Nope that’s the sucky thing. Ordering p1, You need to specify the tower height. You do get two 5mm spacers as well as the angled ones. But If you stuff up the tower height you need to order different ones again. They are like $30us each or something…. But! You don’t get the bolts with them. Typical trek….. you think you can order a few bolts right ? Nope. They come in a case and you get all the different bolt lengths as one order. Atleat that’s what the website says. And those case of bolts (of which you only need 4 for your towers) are around $300 aud, unsure of the us price. It’s ridiculous. The towers you buy if you get that wrong should come with correct length bolts. You may get lucky with your trek Shop and they may have some lying around. But yeh, you want to get the tower height right first go.

Ha, I can guarantee the shop doesn't have towers laying around. One of the guys there is a top age group triathlete and he's got a SC SLR, but the shop doesn't stop any road bikes. The other trek retailer within 2 hours of my house is a mainstream chain and whilst i got my Synapse from there 5 years ago then it was the first time anyone in store had seen a roadbike. The pain in ordering a quarq, talking them through how to install, what a power meter was, swapping over the stock wheels to zipps..... Honestly, reminded my why I've bought frame and built all my own bikes up to that point.

you can order the bolts individually now. I mean that literally. all the bolts are sold as singles.

Oh wow didn’t know that ! That solves a lot
Of headaches

For those that wanted to see how my front end was done. I am selling it, but the doc in the link explains what I did/etc.
https://forum.slowtwitch.com/...turi/Tetsuo_P8039864

Hi guys, could you please tell me if your frame moves as much as mine when you pinch the rear wheel and move it sideways without forcing while holding the saddle with the other hand? The video is in this Google Drive: https://drive.google.com/...9ON/view?usp=sharing
I just had this new Speed Concept but I'm a little worried about the frame warping. My old Canyon Speedmax did not warp like that.
PS: Do not hesitate to let me know if I have not been very clear, I am French and my English can be improved.

I watched the video-that does seem to move more than I would have expected it to. Do you have a local TREK shop to take it to?

Apparently this is normal according to other SC owners. And this is particularly what gives the bike its very pleasant behavior uphill and downhill in addition to having very good performance!

I got my order confirmation email today (I'm mellowing in my old age, I found they hit the perfect tone of cheesy marketing without overdoing it), but it doesn't have an estimated delivery date on there. For those that have gone the P1 route before, do you get further emails throughout the build stages, or is it just the order received and order shipped?

In other news, I have moved into the 21st century and lastnight managed to get my new Roval CLX wheels fitted to the road bike and had my first road tubeless ride. Must admit, if I'd been blind testing then I would not have been able to tell any difference between my tubed tyres and the tubeless. And I certainly notice the latex tubes when I put them in, so on one hand then the world didn't come to an end, as perhaps I was worried would happen with road tubeless, but equally not sure the claims from some of the advocates on comfort are fully there. The miracle was that I managed to get the tyres to mount with my standard high pressure track pump though - were a complete mare to get on the rims, but as a consequence did 'pop' way easier than my MTB ones.

Are you talking about different size spacers? I mine came with a 10 and a 5 and an angled I believe. I did order an 30 and 45mm spacers as well. Depending on the length of the race, my aggression on the front changes. But the bolts that already come with the bike are the same bolts that you use for the different size spacers. No new bolts needed.

If you are added spacers(5mm or the wedge) under the tower topper is when the bolt length changes. The bolts that go through the bottom of the basebar don't change.

Are you sure about this? I will have to look at my extra bolts when I get home. The bolts that mount the tower bases from the bottom of the basebar are all the same size iirc regardless of tower base height. My p1 order came with several different size bolts to mount the spacers/tower toppers. Unlike previous models, the bolts do not go through the entire tower base. There are threads at the bottom of the tower base and top of the tower base for fastening. I have two 7 deg wedges mounted and needed one of the longer bolts to ensure enough thread engagement.

Edit: just looked at the service manual. The underside bolt is M6x20mm and there are 3 different lengths for the top side (25mm, 35mm, 45mm). All of those bolts should have came with a P1.

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But those bolts come with the bike. Is that not the same for you guys? I have the angled spacer on there and the bolts were in the bag.

Ahhh my bad. I thought the towers required different size bolts. Well that is handy then!

2x7 degree wedges is that actually giving you a higher tilt than the 14 degrees ? I have a 30mm tower and one angled spacer and hitting 14 degrees ?

Yeah I’m running two deg 7 wedges to get 21 deg of tilt. Tilt to the extension tip is even more. I don’t have a lot of riding on it (I’ve been injured) but the few rides I’ve done, it feels more comfortable. I may have to go to a smaller tower base with the increase stack of two 7 degree wedges.

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