Not seeing any of your pics. try using imagr or something to post.

Duncan-looks nice. Can you post more pics of the aero cockpit set up. I am curious what your set up looks like.

Thanks

Sorry just re added there

#1 Pictures of this disc online does not show the hub interface to be oval.. If your hub ending on this disc are really oval, maybe post pics?
Several people here complain that sometimes it is hard to align the back skewer. I've had this issue too sometimes. I think it is related to the design of the derailleur hanger. It can shift a bit, setting holes slightly off-center and making it hard to re-insert the skewer. Try to wiggle the wheel so this end goes a bit forward and back as you try to push the skewer.
You could also loosen the 2 DH screws a bit to allow for alignment, then re tighten once assembly is completed. But they are VERY small screws and the hex holes are easy to strip.. better avoid touching them it if you can. I had to drill one out after I've had the bike for only a couple of weeks, pretty nerve racking.


#2 Service manual shows only 2 screws in use to hold the elbow pads. I recommend downloading the service manual from the Trek website - lots of good information to have there including part numbers, would you ever need anything.

#3: Be prepared to be mind blown... wiggle the handle while pulling out.. it frees itself from the skewer. You can use the one tool for either wheel. You can remove it completely for racing (if you have a tool in your kit to open the skewer in case of a flat) or put it back in a more aero position (on the back skewer?)

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T. Guertin / Spocket

Mostly answered above, but...
1) Just checking you are using the skewer with the SC frame, not the one from the old bike - although similar looking could be different threads. And that would be bad. My Synapse road bike needs a little pressure into the skewer to get it to 'bite'.
2) Looks the same, 2 bolts, not 4. Service manual here shows it. Wonder if you are using screws that are too long? SpeedConcept.pdf (bikezona.com)
3) Just to add to the above, and stating the completely obvious, as well as fully removing you can of course pull out and then insert it at a different (more aero) angle.

1) 11ps and 12sp us the same hub diameter and spacing. You're doing something wrong.

2) You didn't attach a picture

3) It's a thru axle, not skewer. Most of them have a lever thay can be repositioned if you pull on it. Either it pulls partially and rotates around a ratchet, or it comes completely off and you can reinsert it at a different angle.

How’s the clearance with the arm cups ? I always wanted to try the RON arm cups or something longer like the tririg, but I figured the way the bars rise up it would mean the cups would t sit flush. Could you grab some pics if possible especially underneath so I can see how that sits by chance ?

Tririg do work allright. Sort of.
You are somewhat limited how far they can be rotated inwards though, as the tip of the cup starts hitting the extension base when toed too far in.
TriRig offers specific SC hardware for the cups (these flimsy M4 screws plus special washers you need) and that set comes with a 20mm (or 15mm?) spacer block that solves that issue by raising the cups.
I didn’t like the cups being that high, and opted to just mount them directly to the base.
Works fine.

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I love rim brake bikes!

Pic from below:

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I love rim brake bikes!

Ahhh thanks for that - u run them kinda wide. I assume if you narrowed them you’d run into issues ?

That’s exactly the case. Fortunately my wife (it’s her setup) likes the cups pretty wide.
If you need to mount them closer together, then there’s no way around using the spacer blocks to achieve sufficient inward rotation of the cups.

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I love rim brake bikes!

Thanks for the responses. See the disc wheel hub I was trying to put on the bike. For some reason I couldn’t fit it. Should this fit given it is not circular

Other than the flat spots for a wrench, looks circular to me..
It should fit. Like I said, just wiggle the wheel a bit trying to get the alignment right

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T. Guertin / Spocket

Yeah, no reason it shouldn't. One thought though, have you checked the brake rotor isn't fouling on the calipers (noting you've not put this wheel in before) and pulling the wheel off to the side, so that it's then blocking the skewer. This is linking a couple of things together, but just wondering.

I had a mare of a job even getting the factory wheel out of the frame past the mech. In the end I found it was only possible when the rear mech wasn't in the smallest gear, needed to be mid cassette then was easy.

Yeah, no reason it shouldn't. One thought though, have you checked the brake rotor isn't fouling on the calipers (noting you've not put this wheel in before) and pulling the wheel off to the side, so that it's then blocking the skewer. This is linking a couple of things together, but just wondering.

I had a mare of a job even getting the factory wheel out of the frame past the mech. In the end I found it was only possible when the rear mech wasn't in the smallest gear, needed to be mid cassette then was easy.

They come with spacers ?

I do love the trek but they really fkd up this whole front end integration. I know it’s been said before but I’d love to have some longer bar pads that aren’t interfered with the rise in the bar itself….. and to change the bars out so I can get my hands narrower and less of a ski so I don’t feel like I’m punching the air. Without spending thousands on top of the bike to customise it that is

There's a $75 Speed Concept kit you need to get. 4 smaller (4mm) bolts, 4 washers and the spacer.

Speed Concept Hardware For Scoops [PRE-ORDER EST. SHIP DATE 3/15] – TriRig

Couldn’t agree more!



It’s $45, not $75, and you have to order it extra.
Still quite pricey for a few M4 bolts, aluminum washer and the two spacer blocks.
Here’s a picture of the blocks (they are 16mm):

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I love rim brake bikes!

I was basing off this.

I actually got some for my Gen 2 version, and notice mine didn't come with the black head pieces...Maybe I need to call them.

Oh interesting. Wonder if they work with others like RON’s ept arm cups and stuff

A bit of a rant but I’m 30mins into trying to connect a wheel I had on the bike at the weekend via the same skewer. This, plus reading the threads above re the front end makes me think I’m after making an expensive mistake buying this bike. It’s a lot of unnecessary BS to be dealing with for a 10k bike. I had a canyon and Argon and had none of this nonsense

I recall reading about that very same issue here on this thread a while back.
I’m too lazy to skim through 55+ pages, but you might have the time and might find the answers helpful.
And it gives you a little time away from the SC to calm down and rest your soul. Haha
I don’t think you made a mistake going with the SC, it is just a special bike.
Once you figured it out, life is good.

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I love rim brake bikes!